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That is a good question, I am not sure either. I do have a 7260 slip yoke off a 4 speed 73 charger if you need one.

My old 69 swinger 340 4 speed came with the 741 323 limited slip from the factory also.

B&M Flexplates 10239, should be part #

Just need a weighted flex plate for the 360 to run a neutral balance converter.

ATF+4 in any brand

Any atf+4 is synthetic. I use type F in my 727 for last 12 years, getting ready to rebuild another 727 and going to use type F. Use whatever type you want, Just make sure you don't mix trans fluid types and you should be good.

That would be a bad day!

Also the low band apply is helping keep the low reverse drum from moving, along with the sprag that only moves in one direction. Without low band apply you are relying on just the sprag to hold the low/reverse drum. Keep in mind it’s only 1st gear the sprag is used, it freewheels in 2nd and 3rd...

I think we are talking 2 failures, your talking about the outer half spinning in the case, I’m talking about the rollers and springs laying over. Both sprags use the same rotating parts, the only difference is how they are attached to the trans. The bolt in might keep the outer part in place...

It depends on the manual valve body having low band apply or not. With low band apply it greatly reduces the chance of a sprag failure. Also the rollers and springs are what usually fail first, by rolling over, then it can take out the outer part of the sprag. Unless you put a super sprag in...

As long as the sprag is set in the case and isn't stripped out, no need for bolt in sprag imo.

I did see rock auto and some other places listing the spool mount as an option too, like you did, makes things confusing for sure.

In 73 they went to spool mounts on A body, before that it is the square one. There is no difference in 340 or 318 trans mount or mounting area, they are the same.

It is not normal for a trans to slip at all, for first start or after its been parked for a while, throw trans in neutral while car warms up, the torque convert drains when parked and the pump doesn't move much, if any, fluid in park, but pumps in neutral and gets torque converter filled...

i believe it is couple hundred rpm

So you have the a500 overdrive trans or a 904 with lock up converter? If its a 91 a500 overdrive trans it also has lockup converter as well. I wouldn't be afraid to run the that behind a 340, going to need some fab work on tunnel and trans mount but the overdrive would be nice. Not sure if...

The a500 trans were all lockup, only the early a518's were non lockup.

I had something similar happen after a gear change, try unbolting driveshaft, rotate 180 and bolt back on.

a500 is a good choice unless you want any kind of stall converter, they are all lockups. I have heard of a few guys changing pumps and input shafts to the non lock up version though.

65 have the tapered axles or was it 64?

Did you try pulling the driveshaft off the rear yoke and turn it 180 and bolt back on?

Should be an easy swap, as long as the 340 is internally balanced like the 318. stall speed can change depending on the horse power the 340 makes. Should hold up if rebuilt, I ran a stock rebuilt 904 behind a 340 in my aspen with a 3800 stall and manual valve body, was a cast crank externally...

I believe autos got the 8 3/4 and 4 speeds got the dana

Stalling with you foot brake and what the converter flashes to when you leave the line are usually 2 different rpm ranges. Do a launch and have someone watch the tach, see what rpm the converter flashes to.

If you are replacing a 727 you will need a 904 yoke. u joint size, just look up a 318 early 70's chrysler with 904 trans.

Never had an issue in my stock rebuild 904 and turbo action valve body. Mine did not have low band apply though, makes a difference in the 1-2 shift as far as overlap.

The splines on the axle can also cut the seal as its slid in, you can put paper over the end as you slide the axle through the seal to prevent this also. I just replaced one on my aspen with an 8 3/4 last summer, the seals are not as cheap as they used to be.

I have had the manual valve come out while wrestling a trans back in once, it didn't come out all the way but the shift lever on the side of the trans was not in the correct spot and would not go into any gear. Would not hurt to look

So you had the trans out to put a converter in and a shifter at the same time? It worked fine after the install or is this after the install?

I vote 3.91's, I just took the 355's out of my aspen. They are a decent in between gear for highway and street, but if performance is what you really want you will be happy with the 3.91's or even 4.10. not much difference between the two.