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Also the Chevy HHR fan works well.

http://www.4secondsflat.com/ I have his original black box and coil in my dart since 2003 or so, also have his electronic voltage regulator that looks like the stock unit. Works great. Thinking of upgrading to his new unit to get rid of the ballast resistor and have a rev limiter.

For street driven car, factory mopar recurved dizzy for me, easily by parts at any parts store if on the road an have a problem.

Why not just dial back your initial and adjust your total?

I have his older system that uses the ballast and no rev limiter. Been thinking of going with this set up as well. Don replaced a bad coil for me that cracked where the coil wire plugs in, was still under warranty. I thought I was having problems with my ignition box few weeks ago but may have...

Yep I believe that is what's up, I found another spare box I knew I had but couldn't find so I can throw that on if/when it happens again.

Yes I talked to Don at FBO, this set up trouble shoots just like the factory set up. I will try that if it does again.

We'll after driving it in a 50 mile drive last week I again parked it in the garage. No start again a week later. I check voltage at coil with key on and 12.48 on -&+ side. I checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.25, so I put the charger on the battery. Came back half hour later, turns...

I hate when you can't find the actual problem, I just went thru it in my FBO ignition thread. Going to take the car out today, hope it doesn't act up again. Sounds like you might have a bad connection under dash some where, the where is the hard part lol.

How did you check your battery voltage? You need a battery tester that puts a load on it when checking it. With a meter 12.6v=100 percent charged 12.45=75 12.24=50 12.06=25 11.89=0 this is at 80 degrees outside temp My guess is battery was almost dead, your jump box left on it long enough to...

I will do that if it happens again, I am going to check the - wire on the coil all the way back to make sure it is ok and check for continuity also, along with the plug in for the ecu.

ECU is well grounded, in fact I never messed with while trouble shooting it. It is bolted to the inner fender on top of 1 inch spacers so air can get under the ECU. Think I will take it off and clean up the bare metal just in case. I let it run and wiggled wires trying to get it to quit but no...

Update, I unplugged the dizzy pick up harness, turned key to run, pulled coil wire off the dizzy cap, everytime I touched the male end of the dizzy harness to ground I got a spark off the coil wire that jumps 1/4 inch. This is supposed to point toward the pick up coil. So I do another test for...

I think you are right

Yes I checked under the cap, no debri and reluctor gap is .008. shaft has no noticeable wobble to it. I was doing some more research, found an old thread on moparts and a guy has the same FBO set up, they trouble shoot just like a Mopar set up. He had same symptoms I am having, including 11.5...

I pulled coil wire off the dizzy, unplugged yellow wire to starter relay so motor is not turning. Had wife turn key to start, held coil wire to ground and I have spark there. So coil is working. I then unplugged the 2 wire pick up connector off the dizzy, had my wife hold key to start...

I pulled coil wire off cap, had the wife hold key to start and grounded coil wire and have spark, did the same with dizzy connection from ECU, have spark there also. I think a new pickup might be the answer?

Got ya, I was thinking opposite of how you explained it. I am going to try the spark test next to double check the pickup, but I read in few places should be. 400-900 ohms and at least .6 volts ac to run but between 1&2 is ideal

I ohmed out the pick up and got 288 ohms, checked ac voltage on the pickup also on lowest setting, wich was 200 on my meter, I got .1 for a second and went to 0. Thought I had a bad connection so tried it few times, same every time. I also put meter on - side of coil and cranked it over, no...

I hear ya, but I have the old system with ballast resistor, I have heard the new system that doesn't require a ballast was possibly made that way, will do some more checking and call FBO if all else fails

I am not sure either, but it should be the same, FBO claims if the ECU fails I can buy a parts store ECU to get me home, but any long term use will ruin the coil. I had another box and coil laying around and ended up using them to convert a lean burn on an aspen I had and sold the car, wish I...

I did turn key on and cross the starter relay, still no spark. I ran jumper from + side of battery to + side of coil, still no spark. I did have 11.5v or so at + and -sides of coil with key in run position, makes me lean toward ECU, will double check grounds to be sure, but ECU is bolted down...

I will check that also.

Like title states, I last drove my dart couple weeks ago, went to pull it out yesterday and no fire. Usually starts right up. I have fuel and no spark. I have done some checking and just need to verify what I have so far. I am leaning toward the ECU, I don't have a spare handy to throw in it...

Could try backing off the initial timing and see if cranks any faster when warmed up.

I have seen that done before where the collar goes all the way up and the body of the dizzy keeps it from pushing up. should work well. I am putting one on my MP dizzy in my dart.

You are correct in that it is keyed for proper index, but that is provided you have the correct balancer and it has not moved like RRR said. You need to find TDC on #1 and verify your timing marks line up.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/maa-3757901 Wondering if anyone has used one? Any good? Do you run an ignition box with it? Thanks