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I found this article to be very helpful in understanding timing (forgive me for the reference to Chevys). http://www.camaros.org/pdf/timing101.pdf

Yes - the newer bulbs are too short and don't press in tightly enough. I wonder if the solution is to find a new but different part number bulb that is longer. I don't know about replacing the housing because I was converting from a 70 grille so I didn't have the original Sharktooth sockets...

For my Sharktooth grille, I went with Dorman 85822 sockets recommended in a previous post on this forum. They aren't a perfect solution - the bulbs ride loosely in the socket - but I've managed to get them to work. If nothing else, they're a cheap solution...

Dead on. White smoke, moisture out the exhaust, fluid leaking out above one of the freeze plugs, fluid level down in the radiator, oil looks like a chocolate milk shake, plugs covered in slime, engine missing really badly. Time to take her apart.

Kit - I don't understand your question. Please provide more detail.

Maybe I should sprung for an e-core coil I did call MSD and ask them if it was OK to use the Blaster 3 with that module. Of course they said Yes. I am using a relay. I measured 12.4 volts at the coil.

Thank you all for your help. I had a couple of setbacks over the weekend. Our internet service went out and my family went nuts. I took me a day and a half to get it back online. Then it looks like I blew a head gasket on the car so I"ll have to take care of that before I look into anything...

Yes Bill - I have the same setup as was devised for the Slant Six. I tightly twisted the wires and then put shrink wrap over it to hold the twists. I rerouted the #3 wire so it does not come anywhere near the pickup wires. I do not have a separate ground for the HEI module does - would it not...

I just installed a new HEI module under the distributor on my 340 with the commerical heatsink. Now the engine runs rough at all speeds due to what feels like a misfire. I put a timing light to each spark plug wire and noticed something strange. On seven cylinders, I get what appears to be a...

The harness runs down behind the plastic dress panel, underneath the aluminum panel, behind the rear dress panel, up behind the seat and then up over the wheel well. If you are looking to replace it or at least inspect and repair it, you will have to remove the back seat, two dress panels and...

Sweet - I just saved $45 with this. Thanks for this great tip!

Push in on the metal connector - the inside where it mates to the other wiring harness at the firewall.

Using this bracket, do you get a solid ground for the HEI module with the heat grease needed between it and the distributor base?

This may be of some help to you. http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html#axzz2I9x00QoU

I think it could be a bad connection at the bulkhead connector, open insulation somewhere along the way that may be shorting out or you could be drawing an excessive amount of current from another circuit problem somewhere. I sure there are other possibilities as to the cause. Not fun to find...

Thanks KitCarlson, I'll give it a shot then.

Whoa - glad I caught this. I was just about to purchase a MSD Soft Touch for use with my GM HEI mod. Back to the drawing board.....

67Dart273 is dead on in his explanation. A voltmeter measures potential across a circuit (+ to -), not in series with that circuit. The ammeter properly connected in series will tell you accurately how much current is flowing through that circuit. These principles are very easy to verify by...

MSD's website says they make two models - the 8738 for use with it's MSD-6T and the 8728 for use with Ford and Chrysler electronic ignitions and the GM HEI large cap distributor. I believe I need to verify how to wire it up to a GM HEI module, not a MOPAR ignition.

Has anyone used a rev limiter with a GM HEI module and MOPAR electronic distributor? If so what model was it and how well did it work? I'm considering using an MSD Soft Touch. That seems to be a less expensive solution and I like the way it limits revs. I emailed MSD but they ignored me. Maybe...

You'll get a wide range of varied opinions on this topic, all with their pros and cons. I opted to go this relatively inexpensive route, explained by another FABO member, Slant Six Dan. I sprung for an AC Delco unit, mounted with the heat sink under the distributor. Lost the fender-mounted...

x2 on RedFish. He did an awesome job on my Rallye gauges which were all fried. His solid state VR is a definite improvement over the factory.

I had the same problem. It turns out the ball bearings in the check valve were severely corroded and not sealing properly.

Does anyone have a functioning Key-in Buzzer relay (Mopar P/N 320884) for a 1970 Plymouth Duster they are willing to sell?

PM me with your email address and I'll send a schematic.

That was it. I wasn't sure because that screw didn't want to come out for nothing. It took a pair of channel locks to free it. Thanks abodyoe.

Does anyone know the proper location for a fuse box on a 70 Plymouth Duster? The air box door won't open much because of the location of my fuse box. It mounts to a bracket on the dash but something is not right. The front face of the fuse box is clearly visible from the driver's seat and I...

Sorry MoPowAR - I just got your message in my email this morning at 12:30 AM. I'm knew to this forum thing - I thought any additional posting notifications would be sent right away. I never actually removed the lock plate. I was able to wiggle the entire plate/steering column assembly enough...

Yup - that was it. Had to pull the upper column bearing. Thanks for the help all.

I tried the key in multiple positions with no luck. My manual makes no reference to a key and I noticed that when I insert a key into the replacement cylinder, a small lever snaps out and locks into place at the bottom. I would think that would prevent the cylinder from coming out.