Search results for query: *

I'm running virtually the same cam with just a touch less lift. One motor's cam has a 108 LSA, and goes through an 2004R and a 3800 rpm lock-up converter. The other motor has an identically sized cam, but it has 115 LSA, because its boosted. The builder says that will tame the cam...

Make sure to ground the ECU well.

I think cable sized are to small of a gauge for that current load at that distance. Using a 12V distribution lug mounted under the hood can help you manage your charging and starting circuits easier. I use a modified MADD wiring schematic including the remote voltage sensing at the battery...

I'm switching to a trunk mounted position this week. I have been using 0/1 gauge welding cable because of it's tough covering. I also use rubber hose to protect any abrasion or contact points. I also use like-sized ground cables from the battery to the block and chassis. Are you running a...

I typically just bolt both sides of the amp gaug connection to a single lug on the gauge. In many cases, I add a volt gauge or have the gauge converted to a volt meter.

Make sure you use the correct gauge cable for both positive AND negative from the alternator, feed your amps through relays hooked directly to a 12V+ distribution lug that doesn't go through any bulkhead connector, and use a big, AGM battery, which acts like a massive capacitor to power through...

Also, check to make sure the voltage regulator is well grounded. Cleaning off a small spot of paint around the screw hole should do it. I like to put a dab of dielectric grease there to keep corrosion at bay.

Mopar alternators are known for notoriously low idle output at idle. Add the bulkhead's propensity to heat up, melt and catch on fire when anything more than even the stock amperage loads are flowing through it, and it is a thing. And, it can easily be addressed and the issues remediated using...

Did you verify that a 4 gauge cable is heavy enough for that amp load over that distance, and don't forget to use a similar size ground cable from the alternator to the battery. If you plan on using the chassis to carry part of the ground load, make sure you have solid clean connections with...

The MADD wiring information is very helpful. The stock wiring has issues with corrosion and increased resistance at the bulkhead connector, so don't run high amperage through it. Also, remember that upsizing the grounds from the alternator to the block, chassis and battery to the same size as...

With the key on run (Start 1), the power flows through the ballast resistor, which drops the voltage for longer ignition component life. With the key in the starter engagement position(Start 2) the power flows around the ballast resistor to give a hotter spark for better/quicker cold and warm...

Same here. Look great. I also used LED's in my side marker lights. It made all my lights much brighter. I did use red LED's and yellow LED's in the appropriate spots. I don't have any of the uneven light distribution in any of the light lenses either. I added some orange underhood LED's and...

I found there is absolutely no need to run high amp power through the bulkhead connector. If you need to, use a separate bulkhead pass through that's rated for that amp load. I run my alternator cable to the factory relay lug on one car with less electrical demand, then a second cable continues...

One thing not to overlook is to running an equal size ground cable to the alternator, and make sure you have a good ground to the engine block and chassis. I am putting coil on plug ignition with my EFI install and will ground each head too. There is no reason to pass high amp loads through the...

I will have to pop one out, and post a picture of which LED bulb I used.

I used a colored LED on mine to both keep the light cooler and to enhance the visual effect of the lighting. Superbrite LED's has nice products. I also added a matching, flexible LED strip under the dash to increase light output in the footwell area.

The new gauge panel you installed uses a volt meter. How did you do a Madd "bypass" of the amp gauge if there is no longer one in the car?

I searched around for an alternator with a high idle amp, and found the vast majority of Mopar style and Denso alternators don't put out a lot of low idle amperage. I finally found that the CS 144. I bought a rewound version with a heavy duty Bridge Rectifier (the component that changes the...

I found that fusable link wires are limited in the sizes that are available when larger wires/cables are used. When I installed a rewound CS144 alternator I installed is rated at up to 225 amps at a fast idle and over 115 amps at idle, I installed a 2 gauge cable and a Marine Grade fuse block...

Fuse selection is based on the gauge of wire you are protecting not the alternator output. Once you have that number, a quick online search for the recommended fuse size for a given wire size will provide you an answer. You should not source your 12v power from inside the cab of the car, so the...

For what it's worth, I run an alternator to battery supplemental cable like you describe on both my Mopars. My '68 has a 2000 Durango alternator on a serpentine drive, and my '70 has a rewound, dual bridge rectifier CS144 alternator that feeds a 12V distribution lug under the hood via a 2...

I use Marine Grade components and wire from places like West Marine and others that service the marine segment. They sell some very robust stuff at reasonable prices. Marine Power Distribution | West Marine

I use synthetic disc brake grease on the cam, felt pad and contact foot of the points set. Check and polish the cam before adjusting the point gap. Verify the dwell with a meter after setting the gap to. Set it on the small side of the spec as dwell grows with wear. If the dwell is still...

Here is where I bought my alternators, one for my Mopar and one for my 2008 GMC, which I put a stereo with 5 separate amps in. USA Built High Output Alternator, Upgrades, Parts, Kits

I run a rewound all-new US made CS144 with dual bridge rectifiers on my 1970 440-6, E-body. I painted it satin black and no one has ever noticed its not a Mopar unit. This is the big unit that comes in Escalades and Suburbans etc. They make much stronger ones with remote mounted bridge...

The trick with high amp alternators in our cars is to wire the alternator to a central distribution lug located a short distance from the alternator. Fuse them properly, and power all your accessory load from there. There is no reason to high amperage into the cabin of the car. I treat my...

It depends on the length of the wire/cable and what the amp load is going to be. There are a multitude of charts available to help you determine the correct size you need. Just Google it. No guess work is needed. It's all been carefully researched.

I'm a believer that any additional accessory electrical load is best kept under the hood, in other words not passed through any factory connectors at the firewall. I like to use a distribution lug or the starter relay stud and wire in any additional circuits using the correct gauge high-quality...

Interesting. I've never heard of that. My MSD Digital 6 box never retards the timing, but I only rev to 7000 rpm. It starts at 35* and hits the rev limiter at 35*. It does have the capability for things like N02 and a High Speed switch retard etc. Is that what you mean? Prior to locking out my...