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well that really sucks !!!

T The smarter the engineers think they are the more complicated they make things .

this might help i never watched it all

if it's that low you have a leak for sure and yes a low system will cycle the clutch on and off . check the hoses and fittings for leaks this is common spots for leaks a uv light works good since it will most likely have some dye in it .

if it does not get hotter than 210 why worry .

you can get that part number at Rock Auto for a good price .

that's just a little rust from inside the block nothing to worry about . if its holding 16psi for several minutes you do not have any leaks .

looks real nice , did you use a primer under the black ?

it's leaking for sure getting worse by the day .

well I guess you know me Jean-Guy .

just for fun I called my local dodge dealer for a quote on the repair he said the minimum labour charge is 860.00 $ plus all parts at least he told me to buy my own core since the cheapest one he can get is over 300 bucks . rock auto the best one is 65 bucks go figure . so anyone that knows...

I warmed it up with the rad cap loose then pumped it up to 10 psi and i'm afraid the heater core is leaking . the engineers who designed this should be tied to a tree and deep heat smeared over there nuts ,taint and asshole . the whole dash needs to come out the ac needs to be drained steering...

my blower motor works fine and pushes good hot air but the windshield dosent clear . I did replace the blower resistor in the past .

not an a body but my Dakota 4.7 4wd the windshield is steaming up or wont clear off very good . I know, heater core ,but there is no antifreeze smell and it will hold 10 psi over night, so that rules out the heater core . this is an a/c truck if that helps . is there a moisture control system or...

no pros with the 160 but lots of cons . jmo . I run nothing cooler than a 180 but mostly a 195 . a 160 wont help hot running engines there are other problems .

I bet they are the very same rad just re boxed .

maybe i'm mistaken but I don't see a shroud in that picture and how hot does it get ?

check the bypass hose and sometimes the fitting will plug

first you need a heat gague to see what the temp is for sure your boiling rad could be boiling or it could be a result of a bad head gasget get a gague on it stop guessing and troubleshoot it properly .

GS320 Non-contact Digital IR Infrared Thermometer -C$16.23 Online Shopping| GearBest.com or this

Stewart Warner Deluxe Series Gauges 82326-60

OK I understand now ... we are working with a language barrier .

you NEED to hookup a MECHANICAL HEAT GAGUE and OIL PRESSURE gauge and get ACCURATE READINGS until you do you are just pissing agenst the wind . it is easy to do if you can't do it get someone who can stock 50 year old gauges are not accurate . if you drove 310 miles without fault it is no doubt...

what temp is ''very hot""

how do you know for sure it's even getting hot a 50 year old factory gauge is not the way to tell for an accurate reading . if the gauge is pegged at 180 it won't come down .

hey RRR the crystal ball is needed here also .

what I wanna know is what' the water pump gotta do with this . and why buy a new one and 210 is NOT hot idleing in a drive thru on a hot day .

I never heard of one person that had anything good to say about jim's auto parts do a google search . BUYER BEWARE .

x2

you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink.