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The trams at Worlds Of Fun in Kansas City had propane-fueled Slant 6's with short 727's. A buddy that knows what he's talking about (dart4door) has seen them. I don't know what kinds of yokes they used. When I was at R&R Salvage right before they closed, they had a dumpster full of 8 3/4...

@VOETOM Tom, I can't believe it's been 5 years already! I stopped into a Mopar shop in Covington, Tennessee a couple weeks ago and was shocked to find out that he was making B/RB to A-518 adapters and was pretty knowledgeable. If you can include some more info on this in a revised version...

I'm not a differential guy. Why grind on the pinion shaft like that?

So it's not street-friendly, and it's also not race-only? Can you please explain?

Are aluminum yokes (driveshaft to pinion) suitable for street use, or is that a race-only thing?

Yeah I saw that but don't feel like blowing out $100+ for two ten dollar switches and some fittings. Maybe it's worth it after all. I just figured someone had posted the vendor info off that kit somewhere.

I'm prepping an A-518 for use in a non-factory equipped older car, and I'm adding the switches to automate the lockup and overdrive functions. What vacuum switch do I use, and where is a good place to get them? Thanks all JOS

I'm sorry, I don't own a Trutrac so I can't tell you what specifically to look for. Have you tried contacting Eaton?

I'm a design engineer (among other things) and I work in a shop that does this kind of fab work as well as powdercoating. If it came down to it, and someone supplied the kit, I could have those made in no time. Please note, I will NOT do that without the written permission from the people that...

10" sure. 9" drums are a death trap.

I wouldn't re drill a damn thing. I used the Moser axles with the offset for the f/m body rear drum plates. I robbed a full set of plates and hardware off a Diplomat sitting down the street and it was a pleasant afternoon that made life kinda cool. Pull the old axles, pull the e brake cables and...

The slant 6 727 was definitely an industrial application as well as automotive. A good friend and knowledgeable Mopar guy remembers seeing propane powered slant 6's with 727's and narrowed 8 3/4 rears in the trams that shuttled people from parking to the front gate at World's of Fun amusement...

So we can buy this controller and it'll control the electronic Mopar trans? That's awesome.

Hold the phone. Is this the electronic version of the A-518?

Any decent good-sized machine shop can lay a bead of weld in there and turn it back to fresh. I've got one I've been meaning to do for years and haven't got around to it. Call your local large-truck shop (cement trucks and dump trucks and stuff) and they'll know who to call.

Sumbitch they're supposed to shine a spotlight on the clouds to alert me when this comes up. It's in the shape of two people crapping in their hands and slinging it at one another. It's because the hub bearings are seated on the axle and fixed to one another (like the front hubs on the front...

There is, it's a little 'shelf' built into the portion of the column that would be where the shift lever mounts and pivots when shifting gears on an automatic or column shift car. It has a little decal with an arrow that says 'reverse' on it. You can kind of see it here So is the reverse...

It be that it's not an original Four-speed column, too. If they swapped it to add the power steering, they might've just added the crap from the four-speed column in the interior to complete the look. That's what I did when I added the four-speed to my Dart, because that was the only parts I...

I don't know but that clutch adjustment needs some fuckin' help, stat. Edit, IIRC those years had a steering lockout that locked the column when the key was removed, and I think it locked it in gear, too. (Again, IIRC). I can't tell from photos, but my manual column has a finger lever you have...

Pull it and check the patterns. While you have it out, check the u joints and rear shoes. If the pattern is that wrong, after thirty miles it ain't gonna get unwrong without new parts. Other things are more esoteric. Axle length correct? Lug nuts tight? Axle u bolts tight?

I had a trans shop tell me to this on purpose (momentarily) once when the trans in my Neon started going. He said if the plates were stuck together it could pull em loose. It didn't hurt anything but it didn't save the trans either

So can the aluminum box be bushed and accept the four speed gear set, and survive in a street car? I've seen both yes and no on this

That's interesting that the flywheel ripped em out. @AJ/FormS I'm running an aluminum flywheel. I wonder if that would help the longevity of I chose to run this box

I get all that. I guess I'm looking for first hand experience of what kills these gearboxes. As in, "when MINE broke, I was....."

Can we define 'abuse' in terms of what kills the aluminum case a833's? Is it burnouts and clutch drops? Lots of shifting loading and unloading the countershaft? Heavy downshifting? Or...? I've little experience with them (and own at least three of them), but seems to me it would do fine even in...

I got one leaning on the wall in the garage. Who is good to mod it to fit my Dart? I'm seriously considering spending the dough for carbon fiber. It's not as much about performance (although there is a gain there too) but you'll see improved suspension compliance through reduced unsprung mass...

I'd take it to a weld shop. It's not structural so perfection is overkill. If it gets some porosity in it but welds up ok, they make sealers. It's pipe thread anyway, so use the teflon sealant goop if it's got a wee pore or two. You're going to re-drill and re-tap it after it's welded anyway...

Depends.... What rear discs? Liberty? Imperial?....? Aluminum center in the 8 3/4? Spool in the 8 1/4? Sure grip? No? GREEN BEARINGS (Oh yeah!) You get the idea. Worst case, hit a pick n pull, bring a scale

There are adapters out there to adapt small block bell housings to big blocks. Is it possible to build one of these transmissions to live behind a mild 440 in a lighter street car that will never see slicks? I want overdrive behind an automatic big block but want to keep it all Chrysler.

If I understand this correctly, and the axles did come loose from the diff, with the weight of the vehicle on them those bearings are now trash. Can you install diff and one axle, and measure with a steel rod or broom handle or something to see where the axle protrusion is into the diff?