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This car has ZERO options on it other than automatic transmission and possibly power steering, both of which I hope to keep with the 440, even though I don't know how ps works on 440 A bodies. I'd like overdrive on the car and since it's a 4 door with no slicks or drag racing, I'm considering...

I appreciate that but I'm going for the OEM look that didn't exist. Your setup looks sweet!!

Try it now, if you mean me.

Also, I'm seeing single piece and three piece kickdown linkage, which would correct for a later factory style build?

What's the correct cable for an A body? All I see are B/E?

Do I really need a new throttle cable or will my small block 2bbl cable work?

I'm ok with this. The EPA didn't mandate this idiocy in my alternate timeline 1975. How? What's the fire risk? Is it possible that the 340 is flat and the 440 isn't? It's a solid rod, but doesn't mechanically actuate the outer carbs. It only forces them closed. Not sure why they would replace...

Is the choke plate supposed to be flat, or bent? This one is bent, and has a wee dent on one end.

It's holding the crate together. Let me see what I can do.

Just pretend for a moment that I don't know anything about metallurgy, engineering, or physics, and just tell me what the hell is going on with this Six-Pack. The throttle linkage has been modified, there's a linky thing on the center carb and I have no idea what it goes to. I'm missing some...

You're damn right. Nothing sounds better than a TQ through an unsilenced air cleaner.

That's the silliest reason I've ever heard for factually wrong info. First off, the secondaries have nothing to balancing air fuel ratio. Either the primaries are correct on ratio or they're not, and ditto the secondaries. That's what jets and accelerator pumps are for. Second, directing...

The one without vacuum is what you want for vacuum advance. A lot of people screw that up. And for the record, in your original post, you're looking at the air door, not the secondaries. The secondary throttle blades are in the very bottom plate of the carb, and are about a large as the...

Correct, vacuum drops as throttle opens. The air door on the secondary doesn't open all the way because the flap serves to create enough vacuum (not technically, but....) to draw fuel into the carb. I don't think it's correct for it to stop against that shaft spring though.

Don't get me wrong. I'll take stainless any day and I'm grateful for being made aware of the option (OEM tanks were Niterne coated, whatever the hell that is), and I'm also less than happy about Taiwan and more than happy it's not CHINA.

I reached out to Liland. Both the stainless and carbon steel version of these tanks are made in Taiwan (which is fine in my book) but they are also currently looking for US-based manufacturing for them.

Reasons?

Thank you for addressing the differences civilly.

I would've told OP to keep the carb and just make it stock, but I'm not all bent out of shape about it like some other people in this discussion.

Any support to your argument? Or just "Nonsense"? Carb drawbacks: wet manifold design has inferior air/fuel distribution no individual tuning to each cylinder's volumetric efficiency poor fueling when cold requires excessive choke which accelerates cylinder wear and decreases oil life EFI...

If you're going to go to the trouble, go multiport and do it right. Throttle body EFI is all the drawbacks of a carb, all the drawbacks of EFI, and none of the exclusive benefits of either one.

I have a Carter hard-mounted to the frame and I can't hear it when the car is running. If it's a street car, you shouldn't need that much pump. My car has full exhaust

I have to agree, the carbon cannister was one of the few emissions-era devices that didn't negatively impact performance aside from a little extra weight. I actually pulled one off a parts car last week and considered keeping it for this reason, but the nipples were broken off so I tossed it...

Was it so hot that you couldn't grab it and toss it in the nearest trash can?

Step one: "Six Barrel", not Tri-power.

I don't know Holley's but if they have four-corner idle, then this is a non-issue. That's why Chrysler spec'd idle circuits on the outboard carbs on six-packs.

That's dope af. Just simple physical contact will shed that static charge

That screw that everyone misses and cracked float bowls would say otherwise.

If you really want to test her skills, send her a thermoquad.

Should I trust 'em with my OEM six pack carbs?