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absolutely. you don't have to accept any judgement from them that doesn't meet your satisfaction. granted, you'll need to get a lawyer to do that. but, yeah. it's doable. unless the car is obviously totaled out, do not let them have it or the title. i hope that it's in your possession and...

the rustoluem "aircraft remover" works well, but it's expensive. while Jasco isn't as potent as it used to be, it's still the best i've found for removing paint from metal-- or at least what's avail. here in cali.

if the jaws are still decent, i'd spend a hot minute futzing with it. otherwise i'd take it to the junkyard and leave it on the hood of a chevy citation as an offering to the skittering yard vultures. much like a sky burial. new ones aren't all that expensive.

it's a ratcheting system, it sounds counter-intuitive but you need to close the jaws completely to release the ratchet lock/pawl. trying to pry them apart will do nothing but likely damage the tool. occasionally they can get locked up so you'll need to put some pressure on the handles and use...

pie tin looks the cats ***. leave the bermuda triangle to the hot rod crowd with their billet BS and polished egr valves.

a bunch of the guys at the muni garage i worked at had aircat and loved the 3/8" and spoke highly of the 1/2" so i imagine most of their stuff is pretty decent. the price point is certainly attractive!

sounding rod for all you needle dicks out there.

dear gawd i should've caught it so much earlier. some absolutely terrible cockamamie idea, the double replies, the stream of babbling nonsense, the upside down reasoning, run on sentences, poor spelling of punctuation, misuse of words and terminology, thinking you know better than a machinist...

all of them, apparently.

how funny would it be if it wasn't "cheap as gasket" and "didn't torque the heads enough" but actually a hairline crack in the cylinder or something. i'd laugh my *** off.

certifiable.

which kit did you go with? and can you report back on ease of use when you get around to it?

sure did! calibrated hairy eyeball, just got it back from the shop!

i just use two rocks and a bearskin. takes about 1/2 of a dirty 30 of high-life and lotsa cussin' and fussin' but it gets done. the alignment was a nightmare, though.

i have a 4 post and really unless you're working under the car every other type of operation is cumbersome. if you're trying to do actual work, a two post is where it's at. that stacker is slicker than deer guts on a door knob.

i too found out the hard way! luckily they sell rebuild kits. i use mine primarily for bleeding brakes, so it gets the water bath and air dry immediately after use.

my shop is 30 wide with a single 16ft roll up. if i had to do it again, i would probably do two smaller doors over the one larger. granted, i'm stick framed and had some constraints but at the time i thought that was the play. what type of truss are you going with?

some of the round-y round guys i know will put a few degrees in rear ends to get some camber. granted, it absolutely wore out everything with the quickness, but they were going thru components like changing bathwater so what was another set of bearings or axles for the weekend to them? but i'd...

+ the mag drill and whatever "attachments" "boring tools" "honing tools"

probably damn near a proper bore and hone job from a machine shop, tbh. success wise? you'll succeed in making something that appears to be workable but is way out of spec. so you'll have wasted time, energy and money. and then you'll still have to pay a machine shop to correct your mistakes...

i'm getting some strong dan the man vibes. maybe he has a brother...

30 a clip if you buy in bulk. i priced it out awhile back and some barroom napkin math came to about 800 to outfit a 1500 sq/ft shop.

thanks boss, you're a stud!

thanks boss, I just ordered my lift and was grousing about which jack to get. much appreciated

which bridge jack did you go with?