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most any 15" should clear without issue, it's the 14" units that are kind of a coin flip.

this is probably the best answer. bringing up the ride height and a slightly shorter tire will probably keep you out of trouble, even better if you have some stiff bars to limit the travel. on my 69 i'm at 26" with the 73~76 parts and quite low. i'm clear of the fenders except at the center of...

yeah, i'd say try the power stops and then reevaluate where you are. you should still be able to lock the fronts up though. the rear discs should be enough to haul down that tire too. and those pressures seem in line with what would be considered an acceptable range. is there any peripheral...

the first thing that jumps out to me is that you can't lock 'em up. i'll be at the front of the line to say that i don't care for the ssbc systems, but that should provide adequate braking and at least lock up a little bit. did you properly bed in the pads? if not, it's certainly possible that...

after the description of the brake actuation to pedal movement, i'm gonna take a WAVSG* that the booster is bunk. just cuz it's new, doesn't mean it's any good. (*Wild *** Very Scientific Guess)

i'll roll some dice and say that it's probably the master. i'm guessing you bought one of those "universal" ones they sell that's based on the corvette master and the bias is all wrong. or as mentioned up thread you may have a drum/drum master

the piston diameter isn't going to to contribute to "touchy brakes", at least not in the sizes commonly available that fit our cars.

explain, in detail, "hard to stop". leave nothing out. has anything been changed or modified: manual to power brakes, pedal, etx. is the master cylinder correct for the application. you're this far in, i'd replace the soft hoses and the distro blocks. if it's 69 you should the one with a...

andy, two questions: is that a swaybar off the strutrod?!? and how do you like those eddy shocks?

when you're done dirty by the treachery of a scumbag one never forgets... dude probably has six fingers on his right hand.

order from whoever you need to order other stuff from so you can justify having to splash $12.99 on shipping a $3 part just don't be a villain and get a MC from the parts store and swipe the retainer and then return it!

https://www.doctordiff.com/manual-brake-push-rod-retainer-bushing-clip-rubber-grommet.html

i just went thru this with another project and found the dorman website to be more helpful than the know-nothing counter jockeys around here. here's a link https://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?year=1972&make=Plymouth&model=Duster&origin=YMM&parttype=Wheel%2520Lug%2520Stud

i think part of the issue is stemming from the variance in nomenclature and colloquial descriptions regarding brakes. for instance, a 72 8 3/4 uses a 10x2 drum, but the shoes are 1.75 and a 7.25 that uses 9" brakes would measure 9x2.25 and take a 2" shoe (technically the friction surface of...

BOSCH BS331 10X1.75 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7543344&cc=1088445&pt=1688&jsn=616

i *think* i know what may have happened... need to investamagte a little more and review the pics to verify. but i think somewhere along the line the brakes OR the axle got a switch-a-roo-- like an early axle housing with brakes got put in and they switched the axles shafts and drums out to...

wut?

it should be something that's dead simple. it's BBP 7.25 (are you sure it's 5X4.5 pattern) so it should be a slam dunk. even if rock sent the wrong parts, or the wrong stuff is on there all the right junk exists out there. it might be pain, but the path forward could be just rolling to the...

let's go back to "anything can happen in 40yrs" and think about the possibility that this might not be an a-body axle or even a mopar piece... granted, i haven't looked at any other diff cover patterns. and 9 bolts certainly points to 7.25 but have you confirmed that there's a chry co stamp on...

i think it's forced perspective or a bad angle, or some of y'all either ain't got your nails dirty in awhile or need to book a visit with the eye doc. that's a 7.25 in slant6dart76's car

that's an 8 1/4 in my photo.

i don't think so. that looks 7.25 to me cover isn't round enough, the axles look different than the one i have sitting here.

in case anybody was wondering, the 73~76 brackets & booster weigh in at 11.5lb and a cast iron drum master is 5.5lb. the alum two bolt modern master is 3.9lb

B-money, i respect your technical prowess on carburetors and all things tuning/induction, but i think you're off the mark here. i don't think there's any more flex in the assembly than there is at the firewall with the manual master. my hunch still remains that the braces are there because...

if that were the case (force from braking) then why wouldn't a manual master cylinder have bracing? ostensibly, that would be transferring even more pedal force than the power booster directly to the firewall.

to my knowledge, all ma mopar was 5 lug obviously the big/HD trucks and modern stuff have their own jam. maybe they're dakota 6 lug? what was that, 97?

something is certainly afoot. obviously getting a 12" 6 bolt drum when that's not only wrong for the application but wrong in the box is a whole issue. i'd start with 100% confirming what you have cooking. a lot can change in 50 years. verify your rear end, bolt pattern spacing and diameter of...

it's not so much for pedal pressure as it is to support the weight of the assembly. you've got all the junk dangling way out there on those four studs that are poking thru the firewall and that pattern had a kinda small footprint.

yes. if it's factory, it absolutely needs them. if it's an aftermarket kit, then it may or may not depending on what type of bracing the supplied bracket has (some are pretty robust).

+ a little *brrt* *brrt* when i worked at deere there was a guy that used air hammer for everything and all the damn time. tie rods, grease caps, lugs, studs, clips, pins, bearings, nothing was safe. we used to joke that he used the brrt brrt more than a ratchet, but the dude always beat the book.