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yeah but the time to get there could be measured with a sundial!

you'd probably not loose too much going to the performer, but i think it would be pretty noticeable on the iron unit. have you tried a drop base air cleaner to see if you can get the hood clearance?

420/445

you sure showed me gramps! guess i owe you the two bits i got from mowing lawns yesterday after school! you posted suspect anecdotal data, without context and counter to your other posts. i thought that was interesting and made mention of it. i didn't question your honesty, i didn't call you...

what ever you say, pal. i hope this exchange made you feel better about yourself; you obviously need that.

if you wish to insult me i would much prefer if you did so using complete sentences, and maybe some grammar. or at least something that passes for the english language. shocking revelation: i don't keep a detailed dossier on the History of a-bodyguy, facts V1 honestly, all you do is...

pardon my conflating the facts, what with all your posts being so easy to decipher.

by all accounts, this is the same motor that you've raced, changed cams on and shot nitrous at? *raises eyebrow*

i was assuming that one would be starting with a 10.5:1 bottom end on a fresh build and then working toward 400 from there, not slapping parts on a wore out 55yr old motor.

if you extrapolate the data from the dyno test, it appears that each "bolt on" results in a 20hp gain (approx)... the 340 is rated at 275hp and we've seen 320hp in "stock" dyno tests so let's split the difference and call it 300. add an intake, headers and carb you're at 360. throw in a...

that's true. but in a wheeling and dealing scenario if you're moving parts they'd be good trade fodder.

hardly any highway and for maximum around town shenanigans 3.91 would be the call. 3.55's would do great as well. maybe split the difference with 3.73's? if you plan on driving it any kind of distance, 3.23's for sure. you can probably trade your gears straight across for the set you decide on.

reminds me of a quote from my buddy who works on big ships when i asked him how much horsepower one of those giant diesels made: all of it. and when i asked about torque he said: double that.

i'd hazard a guess of 247/254 (their nostalgia plus piece) advertised 292/299... bet she's got some of that lope them kids are on about.

480hp/530tq

plug your info in here to see what you'd be turning on the highway and if you can live with that https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator for what your intended use is, you'll be fine with 3.55's or the 3.73's worst case is that you have some abysmally tiny cam in...

interesting that the summit cam and that thumpr are almost mirror image on specs. i'd love to see a back to back dyno on them. anyway this is all a moot point. everybody knows 3/4 race cam is the correct answer here.

with that compression pretty much anything closer to stock would be night and day. 360 4bbl cam would probably run real good, or an aftermarket RV cam... but man, that's a double whammy: dog water compression and altitude just magnify the problem.

and then wonder why a guy running a stock teener topped with a swapmeet 4bbl intake and junkyard holley is blowing doors off at the saturday night stop light eliminator contest.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/318-max-fuel-economy-builds.530876/

i'm not sure, let me have a smell...