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correct. it aids in the structural rigidity of the frame in that it ties the floor and the t-bar mount area all together.

remember, it's also the hoop above it that attaches to the floor that also provides substantial support.

keep in mind that the stock transmission x-member and hoop are an integral part of the "frame" and because the t-bars anchor there it is critical to retain the structure and if modified to substantially beef it up. i only say T5 because the road has been traveled before and the parts are there...

on the NV you'll need one with the speedo hook up, if you care about that sort of thing. don't be lulled by the siren song of the ram version, the shifter is in a different place and makes that tricky. the trans mount is probably going to be the biggest obstacle. the gear splits are booty...

if you have it all apart and access to a machine shop/machinist friend that could do the work on the cheap, i'd say go ahead and "future proof" it. but if the shaft isn't all sloppy in the hole like kicking a hotdog down a hallway, then i say throw some schmoo on it and ship it. with a light...

RIF, my dude. :p fwiw, you were on it. short of a bearing, oiled bronze would be my choice for a spinny bit in another spinny bit. IANAE, but if it was good enough for Deere it will be good enough for me (rpm limitations are ignored for this particular exercise, please see appendix A...

i mean, it's not like the shaft is spinning... a lot of small engines have two piece bearings with the race on the crank-- steel crank, steel inner race goes on the crank, rollers/outer race in the case.

this with a lonnnngggg extension, u-joint and a shorty 12-point. bonus if the ratchet is flex handle. throw a few wraps of electrical tape on the u-joint so it's not all floppy and it should be able to glide right in.

three speed shifters bolted to the shifter in that pattern. turkey leg cuz shifting 'em is like trying to pull a leg off the bird. bonus points if you make motor sounds while doing it at the table while all the relatives give you strange looks.

3spd turkey leg gobble! gobble!

here's a wild idea, and totally left field approach, but have you thought of using a race style (tilton) swing pedal or pedal box assembly? granted the time/effort and re-engineering would be a gargantuan ball ache, but would be a tidy install and could potentially be adjusted to better suit...

i'll add to the chorus, in that i wouldn't sweat it. you'll lose a u-joint before that becomes a worry.

i ran a 3.09 in two different darts (64 & 65). one had a 3.55's with 25" tires and you'd be wanting to shift about the time you were thru a big intersection. the other had 3.23's and 26" tires and was a little more forgiving. in a light weight, low powered car with low gears (numerically) that...

the 2.66 will give you better ability to boil the hides or hole shot, but arguments can be made for the better sidecover and ratios. it really comes down to what type of driving you're doing.

well, it's a 66~68 inland non-console shifter and it's a standard output trans (non B&T) so that lines up. it's got a /6 bell, but that doesn't mean much. it's 4spd and it's a-body but without the numbers the specifics are impossible to know.

one benefit to going hydro is that you don't have to worry about sourcing the correct Z bar and you can run pretty much whatever bellhousing you want that fits (within reason) however, for your application tons of bell/z combos are out there and easily obtainable. so it's really just weighing...

a pedal assembly is going to run you about 2~3 hundred easy, and well north of that for one that's been rebuilt. so just know that going in. there's a few kicking around on flea-bay and a wanted ad here might unearth one as well. the flywheel is pretty standards. brewers has reconditioned...

question: does the console come even remotely close to fitting over the crossmember? i know you don't have the floor in yet, but i was just wondering if you had an idea. i know, i know, hold your horses and all that. i'm sub'd to the build thread too

after reading that, you sure no painkillers? having difficulty parsing the message. but i think you're asking if the shifter mechanism is specific only to A-bodies or the bayonet style handle? and what replaces it because you think that yours needs replacement?

that is an incredibly low final ratio, what are you planning on running ignition wise to get enough timing at cruise?

the achilles heel is the counter shaft bore and once that gets sloppy the interface betwixt the gears turns into a boxing match in a phonebooth. somebody locks it up with somebody else and ka-pow. getting that bushed is the best step. they put those transmissions is vans and trucks behind...

$400 would be a fair price if it's not totally junk. the more you can include with it to make it a package deal the better chances you have of moving it. shipping is gonna be a deal killer on it, so expect to meet a buyer half way on shipping, delivery or some other consolidation.