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you'll get no argument from me there. maybe a high end alum. unit on the later 67+ cars, but for the early stuff nothing really fits as well as the stock unit. add in the uniqueness of the early early road toad and i can foresee just all kinds of pain in the assedness little fitment issues.

a *good* aluminum radiator is going to cost you dough and might not meet your expectations of what the ideal of the engine compartment should look like. on the other hand, refurbing your stock rad could be a costly proposition as well. if the tanks are good, i'd shop a recore and see if i...

tough call. depends on how deep you're into the 360 for and if you can at least break even on it and score out the 408. even if you're a little more dough in, the 408 is worth it and the instant gratification/speed running the project timeline might justify the additional cash outlay.

you got the parts you needed AND that? mark it as a win!

i'd always steer toward alum aftermarket heads if the price was the same or close. but! brand new heads still need to be checked out, they're rarely ready to run OOTB... which means a trip to the machine shop and mas dinero. and then tack on some more coin if you need to update...

JR, thank you for articulating what i was trying to say and had in my mind and totally forgot about. the rec on those pistons is gold. great ring pack (and material!) and the fact that they're forged is a great plus! lightweight just sweetens the deal.

more than most, fewer than many it's not about the motors we built, or dreamed about, or blew up and had to rebuild; but about the lessons we learned along the way.

if the cam i'm buying offers a matching lifter kit, i'll usually go that direction. in the case of howard's i *think* their lifters are made my morel, which are good quality. you're not going to know if the stock pushrods work with the setup until you start your pre-assembly checks. likelihood...

talk to the machine shop and tell them your expectations, they may recommend a piston that will meet your criteria. or they might say that you're on your own! you *need* to communicate with the machine shop. this is KEY. remember, bore finish is important to what rings you're going to run...

heads are going to determine piston selection, kinda, sorta. depending. are they decking the block? if so you'll need to know how much they're taking off. you can go KB107's off the cuff and *probably* be alright. but better to know the deck height, chamber cc of the head (and design) and...

if that cam was in really good shape when it was removed (i can't tell from the pics), and the lifters were labeled/placed/stored so that you can match them all back to their original lobes, i *might* take a chance. but i think single pattern old school grinds are butt, so i wouldn't risk the...

i mean, sure, why not-- you're doing pistons so you'll have the compression-- or at least should have some decent squeeze. as long as you're not running like a 2.76 and soft converter it should be okay. just don't expect it to have great manners down low, or run power brakes. what were the...

he has one on a LA360 that's pretty straight forward with stock small valve J(?) heads. iirc correctly it wasn't super wild with KB107's and stock bottom end. but it had a single plane and a fairly rowdy cam, and made just shy of 400/400. the one magnum build he did was super impressive. if not...

a rash of wiped lobes and early failures have put people off them.

1st i would talk to the machine shop, the overbore will dictate which pistons you can use-- it *should* be fine, in that most everything comes in 20 & 30 over it's just the price that might be a surprise (some are like 100bux more). also, they'll need to know what to finish the cylinder at for...

great choice for a base to start with in the corner carving department. tons of options to build something super fun that'll handle really well for not an absolute mountain of dough. i had a bench in my 65 dart that was basically set up as an autox/solo car... it was, to put it bluntly, not...

spray bomb roll bar and chassis paint: vht, jegs, eastwood whoever. also have had good luck with enamel engine paint by duplicolor.

1st, you'll get 10 bux and a burrito for the cam and heads. okay, maybe that's a slight exaggeration but it's not going to be much at all. 2nd, you don't want that power package. that cam is ridiculous for mild performance goals and streetable drivability. you'll need compression, exhuast, a...

*sees single pattern 480 284 cam* mmmrrrppphh. i mean, sure? i personally would go with something a little smaller and more modern. but it all really depends on how you want to use the car and what your expectations are for the motor: power wise, driveability, etc. if you have the...

what cam is in there? (whatever it is, we'll all probably recommend something different) if you have the airgap hang on to that. it'll be more than cromulent for a nice street car motor. those valves look hammered *** 90* filter may or may not work with headers, it depends on the brand...

i'd mexican blanket the interior, rub out the paint and then turn my focus and efforts to the drivetrain and chassis. upgrade to disc brakes up front, upgrade the rear axle, new uprated springs and shocks, larger more modern wheels and tires. dial in the slant and trans, make a game plan from...

steering wheel lock? looks like it might be just long enough to hook to the rim or a spoke; is there any wear on the wheel or has it been replaced? saw a similar set up where they had welded a ring on the shifter, chain was welded to the floor pan and ran up over the wheel and had just enough...

with only two photos to go by, probably 3 i see a few things right out of the gate that nit-picky buyers would be hemming and hawing about. but going off the description and those two pics, it's solidly a high teens-low 20's car. i could see it pushing mid to high 20's depending on a few...

man, if you turned down 30K for that thing you should be kicking yourself till next tuesday. you'd never, ever, ever get 30K parting that out. and what money you could get would take FOR-EV-ERRR to get there. like you'd sell the big stuff right away: motor, trans, rear end, most of the...

if you have a 3.08 1st and are quick on the pedals you can catch a lot of fools napping. my buddy has a rambler wagon with a 200 6 and 3 on the tree and that thing will straight run you in a long city block. it's not fast by any stretch of the imagination, but it's super fun to jam out on the...

*pulls comb out of back pocket* *brushes back mullet* *puts on oakley blades* hell yeah buddy! that would be wicked fresh!

needs some centerlines to round out the look! love it!

mild rebuild, stock crank will be fine. polish it up and if you're content with the results and confident that it'll be acceptable spec, then ship it. but $295 is cheap peace of mind, in the grand scheme of things...

do you know the way to san jose might be worth a little day trip. but no shame it trying some backyard voodoo and seeing what transpires. true, true. it's hard to make a move when being wrong costs you that few hundo out of pocket and a big old chunk of time. aim for something that's just a...

yeah, them journals look pooched. 400/400 on a bore & hone sounds a little high to me, but maybe i'm wayyyy out of touch. i'd ask them what they'd do a crank for-- it's likely gonna need to go 10/10 so i don't think you'd be able to polish that out. if they want a grip of dough on the crank...