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mos def oil press and water temp. volts if you're going for the triple tap.

thank you for the clarification. also, apparently i can't read otherwise i would've caught that! my bad.

if you're talking about the "candy cane" kick down rod, it's specific to the super six only.

i don't know the magic recipe of which head is the best, which bottom end has the most compression and/or best pistons and rods, but that seems to be the direction you're heading which is excellent. i will however strongly encourage you to run something other than the 1920's, anything other...

save the money you'd spend on that and put it toward upgrades for the magnum or spend it on a rear end or suspension or dancing girls and cocaine.

see above ^^ T right off the housing to the dummy light press sensor and the tube for the mech. gauge.

sounds like an optimal time to clean everything up, reseal and install a mechanical gauge...

interesting. so where were you getting the press reading for the dummy light?

have you verified that the wiring to the pressure sensor or the connection there isn't hanging on by a thread. i'd be inspecting that before replacing oil pumps. but before ANY of that i'd put a mechanical gauge on it to confirm pressures: cold, hot, idle, 2K and on a road test-- have a...

you could probably take it to a good shop and have them move it for not a ton of $$'s the other option is some sections of factory molded hose with steel tube spliced in. it's a little bit of a puzzle and you might need to order a bunch of stuff to eyeball and mock up, but it's totally doable...

need a banana for scale

so you've decided against a V8 swap at the moment? carrying on... as hotrod swinger noted, you'll need a 2bbl intake and the proper linkage to operate the carb and kickdown for the transmission. the bouchillion kit is a nice piece and works well; it's a few bucks but well worth it to avoid the...

just like a hot date down south, ya gotta count the teeth to know how far you'll get.

penetrant, heat and if you don't care about saving them a pipe wrench. a couple of rounds of heat and PB blast should get them to the point where they just about jump right on out.

yup, that's exactly that's what i was thinkng.

btw, depending on the bolt pattern and the tooth count that might work for an early bell that came in the 64~66 cars...

sounds perfect for a sacrifice. you can bring it by my villain hide out and throw it in the volcano if ya want.

the slant is symmetrical right? or at least the one i'm looking at here on the bench appears to be and the one in the pic does not.

nuthin' a 3/4 race cam, an 850cfm 4bbl and 3800 stall converter can't fix.

it's a straight roll of the dice. you can perform the same tests: cranking compression, leak down, scope down the bores, check the plugs, give a visual to the valve train, check the oil. pull the pan and check the bearings. that would give you a better picture of were it's at, but it...

good lord. how was that even running with that amount of leak down. anyway 6 & 3 are no bueno it's a hard call with the spare motor. do you know if it was a good runner when pulled? how long's it been sitting? can you roll it over and get a quick and dirty compression check or leakdown? if...

Y U no fill to the "full line"? at any rate, my query was more along the lines of dipsticks can get changed, pans changed, new dipstick might not read the correct level, and so on, and so forth. it's a known entity in the small block sandbox, so it might be worth looping back and double...

so, it was less than a quart down? in 6mo and 1K? i wouldn't sweat that in the slightest. plugs don't look bad, probably the wackiness of the fuel filter/pump/regulator situation in conjunction with the float level in the carb is where the low speed running issue was coming from. however...

are we looking at the same plugs or did you have a few too many tallies?

four pages and a week later... we've got pics of the plugs, at least a dozen suggestions to check the compression and probably twice as many to ground out wires or squirt liquid on runners. if you haven't popped the valve cover off yet to inspect for damage or something amiss, it's time for...

the gasket that goes betwixt the intake and exhaust where they meet under the carb. the technical term is "riser gasket" (i had to look it up).

i could hear it. a smoke test confirmed it.

same same. i love the remflex but it's very kid gloves approach with those. i have about a 85% success rate with felpro and victor reinz stuff. and it's always the damn manifold sandwich one that leaks. mmmrrrppphhh!

also to note: an exhaust system will hold an absolutely astonishing amount of oil before it manifests on the tips of the tail pipes. (and gas too, but that's a story for another time)