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yup, i don't even question it anymore, it's step 2, right after the battery. the IVR has been on my 1st things to do list for awhile now, along with brake hoses, checking wheel bearings, ect, for whenever i get a "new" mopar.

just to make it complete i "liked" @4spdragtop 's original post :)

are you saying you can't get the fuse block on the bracket or can't get the screw through the bracket into the fuse block?

still have the receipt?

what year is it? what model #? have you looked at the FSM? :rolleyes:

@Johnny Mac

basically you either need to 1) install and hook up pretty much everything that the stock computer normally sees so it still thinks it's in a Dak 2)hack the computer to eliminate everything you don't need / want to use 3)get a stand alone computer

i agree. except for the valiant i have now, where it's a real kill switch, it just makes for a convenient way to disconnect the battery instead of pulling the clamp off

really, since i never put a modern radio in anything and keep the battery clean, i never have anything draining the battery.

trickle charger works well too. not as cheep, but no wiring either. i've been using this BatteryMINDer one for a few months on one car. i do put disconnects in my mopars. makes it easy to kill all the electrical when working on the car

doesn't the needle just sit in the middle, like everything is good, when they're unhooked?

i'm wondering why it burnt up. loose connection, overload, new equipment wired in a bad location? so you're cutting out the ammeter, was it the ammeters fault?

THIS help?

A: you don't need a "one wire" alternator. B: what do you want to accomplish? just a battery disconnect or a kill switch? they are not the same thing. reading: 1 2 3

you can also stretch the end a bit and tie a half hitch in it. then tuck the tail in between the wires. if it's orientated correctly the tail will disappear under the wiring

i have. mine had a few melted cavities. tips, A: have a factory manual B: double check someone hasn't re-routed something and that all the wires are in the right place C: learn to read the manual before you start cutting D: pull the front seat and put some packing blankets on the floor i...

i have. mine had a few melted cavities. tips, A: have a factory manual B: double check someone hasn't re-routed something and that all the wires are in the right place C: learn to read the manual before you start cutting D: pull the front seat and put some packing blankets on the floor i...

reason being?

:lol: NS...

a lot of threads here about dim lights / charging issues. spend a couple days going through them, and your car, and you will be $$ ahead and happier. here's a few to start with. Flickering or pulstating Headlights Voltage problems, cutting out when hot charging system blues Headlights

sure it's just the alternator? you should make sure all the electrical connections are good or your just going to have the same problem

you can call the store and have them look it up

to start, for the headlights you can use @crackedback's kit that's pretty plug and play, or @slantsixdan also sells all the parts and you supply your own wire. i used dan's setup and it worked great. i went a little more extreme and cut out the stock fuse block and rerouted everything. so the...

i kept mine. removed it, inspected the lugs and insulation and re-routed all the heavy load stuff away from it. headlights, A/C, ect on relays that don't go though it. this way it still works but it shouldn't melt down some day

doesn't @AJ/FormS run the older style one? might be a stand alone

ya, i have no idea if it would work as is. it does look moldable though

@B5 Duster 340 duster showed one off too 340 starter mini question

well cripes, here ya go 2005-2018 Mopar Starter Shield 56044116AE | Genuine Mopar Parts Direct

HEMI style