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if someone doesn't know how old the brake hoses are on one of these, they should always be replaced

how long did that stuff take to setup before you could assemble?

did you decide to rebuild the rest of the front end now, or going to hit it later on?

i know it's best to move on, but dang it, i want to know what the problem ends up being :lol:

my personal opinion, you will never get all the old paint and gunk off the inside of the K with sand blasting. and then you will never get all the sand out of it. either find a place to chemical strip it and then powder coat, or clean it up as best you can at home and spray paint it. sounds...

you want restored correct finish, i.e. rusty, or cheep and looks good all the time, i.e. rattle can gloss black?

is it even a prop valve or just a safety switch? factory front disk brakes or drums?

you should be able to get them as long as none of the fittings are too frozen, sounds like yours might end up being so though. a small vice grip might be the ticket to break loose the fittings. at worse you may want to unbolt the header

welcome, we need to see pics of the car. mostly just because we're nosey and like looking at them :) worst part might be under the master cylinder next to the exhaust. i'd remove the MC first thing i hope you can still type that in a year :lol:

next time just bed those puppies in at the beginning.

after you swap the brake cylinders, (yes, do them both), bleed everything in the correct order. rears first, pass then driver side. then the fronts. pass then drivers side. vacuum bleeders are convenient, but having someone pump the peddle is much better. no reason the have the cap of the MC...

i wouldn't say "stopping" is more difficult, the brakes are the same ones that were already there. unless someone has issues with their leg strength, you just need to push harder to apply the same force to the system. the woman who bought my 74' had some leg issues and apparently had no problems...

going to manual brakes is easy. get a manual brake pushrod and rubber retaining clip. Dr Diff carries them if needed. quick overview: unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and remove the booster from the car. install the new brake rod in the MS and carefully move the MS against the...

also FEDHILL

no idea why jacking it up jacks it up, but i am wondering if you've tried re-bleeding the brakes, and if it then happens again, and if you checked the fluid level in the MC

so i'm assuming you're doing manual brakes? you need a manual brake push rod. make a wanted add or get one from Mancini or Dr Diff. make sure you get the rubber piece that holds the rod in the MC

is it close to the end of it's adjustment?

any plans for a portioning valve, or are you going to see how it does first?

if possible, you should also have the tires you plan on running. example: i've got my disks installed but know i'm going to 18" wheels and wider tires so the brakes are going to behave way different later

are they 1/2" or 7/16" ?

FEDHILL has the fittings if you can't find them local.. the easy way is hit a U-PULL yard and get the fittings off a donor car. get enough line with them to make a set of bench bleeder tubes, to bleed the new master, before you hook up the lines

:lol: well, i'm not an engineer, so maybe i don't know it's supposed to be difficult

you need a manual pushrod. don't forget the rubber bushing. after the booster is removed you can gently move the MC into position and bolt it to the firewall without opening the lines. just bend to fit as needed

on going manual brakes: i've done three? cars over the years and just reused the power M/C no problem. and if you don't like it, go to a 15/16"

start at the rear end, disconnect the hose that feeds the brake dist block on the rear housing. remove the lines from both wheel cylinders. blow out with air. then open line at prop valve and do the same from there to the rear end. resemble and try bleeding

well cheap is replace the wheel cylinders. after that it could be the MC leaking internally. have you pulled up the carpet under the brake peddle to make sure nothing is dripping down the fire wall?

how are you bleeding it? and you're saying you still get bubbles out at the wheel cylinders? if there are no leaks at the fittings, i'd suspect the wheel cylinders. might be pulling air in past the seals edit: it's not losing fluid is it?

also note the anchor springs go on a certain way, per Dana67dart's pic

the peddle is firm, but nothing like with a broken booster. i'm not home but here's a pic from another thread i had. this was a 74' that had power brakes. just removed the booster and gently moved the MC into position. no need to open the lines up, just don't kink the lines

reuse the master cylinder you have as long as there isn't anything wrong with it. might be easier to pull the front seat to get the bolt. you're going to need a manual push rod and the rubber grommet to hold it in place. you can get a used one or go new. @DoctorDiff has both. where about's...