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The later 645 rods were offset between the big end area and the beam to better clear the bigger crank counterweight of the cast cranks, (read late 340s/360s). Less density than forged steel means more size to allow balance.

DO NOT do that. they are filled with a light oil so that they can be pumped down to the proper preload more easily, that's why you run the rockers down by hand, so that you don't bend pushrods. Years ago, we used to soak them in motor oil, but not anymore.

That a forging NO. not a part NO.

Felpro # SS70537 is the number for the intakes if they have the original 5/8" OD guides

Picture#8 where the dial caliper is at the top of the piston is what I was referring to.Measure them at the top of the skirt just below the oil ring groove and see what you get.

You're measuring them in the wrong place. Measure them at the top or the bottom of the skirt.

Loosen the pump mounting bolts and let the shaft line up the pump instead of vice versa. Those HD shafts can sometimes be tight , not in the bushing, but where if fits down through the block. The bolt holes have enough clearance that the pump can move around slightly.

The cranks without a hole are from 318-III truck engines. As far as appearance, look closely at the sides of the front and rear counterweights, they're slightly smaller.

Something you gentlemen may have overlooked, those are made for a .927 Chevy sized pin.

Not very. STP, Motor Honey, etc. are viscosity improvers/ thickeners, and as such do a good job, but lubricants they ain't!

No, DAB, Detroit Aluminum Bronze, maker of Michigan brand bearings was an aftermarket supplier and was liscensed to sell, "77", bearings. Any factory bearing would have a factory part number and even if they made the bearing, it wouldn't have their name on it.

A Bearing Scraper is what you're looking for, there are lots of them on Ebay

A new or freshly rebuilt rod big end bore should be round within .0005 and should be straight and not tapered, hour glassed, barrel shaped, etc. more than .0002. If the bore is longer than one inch that spec. becomes .0003. A used rod can be as much as .001 out of round as long as it's bigger...

Don't turn the cam/crank backwards. The slack in the timing chain will throw you off.

There's supposed to be a sheetmetal tab that fits under one bolt and hooks into that fourth hole to drip oil on the chain. The early engines had a fourth bolt with a hole drilled thru it to do the same thing.

Pioneer Engine Products, www.pioneerautoinc.com used to sell one that didn't need to be fitted. Don't imagine they'll sell direct, but they can point you to someone who will.