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I got new shift rods for my ‘64 from the Shifter Doctor.

How did you determine that?

The Shifter Doctor has all of the information that you need. He has been selling and rebuilding Hurst shifters for years. Hurst never actually rebuilt any of their own shifters as they sent them to the Shifter Doctor for repairs and rebuilds. Browse by Category - Shifter Doc

The best advice that I can offer you is to get the 833 Transmission Manual that both Jamie Passion and Brewers sell. It was a very valuable resource when I rebuilt mine. You might even be able to get one cheaper thru Amazon.

Sorry, I must of hit it by accident. I fixed it.

Before you install the bearing mount the bell housing and stick the transmission in. Do not install the clutch or pressure plate. If the face of the transmission meets the bell housing there is no need to cut anything. If there is a gap then measure it and add a quarter inch to it and cut the shaft.

Congratulation. FYI, the one with the counter weight is most likely an automatic. I’ve never saw a manual transmission with a counter weigh.

Carlisle is coming up in a couple of weeks. Maybe you could find one there or maybe someone here can trade or sell you a A-body 4-speed. If you decide on converting the one that you have just make sure that it has the small bearing retainer. If you haven’t already done so you should post your...

66 &67 18 spline Hemi used the 4.35 small 307 retainer.

This is an interesting discussion. It might not happen until Carlisle but I’ll ask Herb Mccandles what he suggests the next time that I see him. I’m originally from Syracuse New York which was home to New Process Gear where all of the 833 4-speeds were built. I’d would have asked my NPG buddies...

I bought a new Dart Sport with a 4-speed in 1973 and the transmission was noisy. The dealer drained the ATF and refilled it with gear oil and the noise went away. I’ll never put ATF in a gearbox ever but that’s just my opinion.

I really think that Brewers would be the best one to answer your question.

I agree. Those parts are hardened so they will crack again.

I bought a brand new 73 Dart Sport 318 4-speed car back in 73 and the gears just rattled something awful. I found out that the gearbox came equipped with ATF so we drained it and refilled it with 90 weight and all the noises went away.

I notice that the offset dowels that you offer are specific to small block bell housings only. Is there a reason why they wouldn’t work on a big block bell housing?

You need to re-read Magnum Valiant’s post. You align the bell housing with the dowel pins removed then drill the dowel pin holes oversized. The only issue I see is that the bell housing and the drill centerline must not move during the drilling process. If it were me I’d sandwich an oversized...

Good point but it might be that an automatic is more forgiving to misalignment.

The factory finished machined the hole in the bell housing after it was attached to the block. If there was any other way you would see offset bushings in blocks. Other than that I’m not sure what the procedure was.

One issue that you will have is filling the master cylinders since they will be under the dash. I used a system like that on a race car but we had a sheet metal dash and it had a removable access panel so that wasn’t a problem for us. I actually did it using mostly stock parts including the...

Can you post pictures of the corrosion?

That’s a race motor for sure since it looks like it was Balanced and Blue Painted.

What’s the inside look like?

‘64 & ‘65 used Hurst Competition Plus shifters with the stops for the lever arms. ‘66, ‘67 and most of ‘68 used Inland shifters. I believe that they changed back to Hurst in late 68 and by ‘69 and forward they were all Hurst.

There is a special Hurst shifter mechanism that bolts to the Inland shift handle so the car appears to have an Inland shifter but it shifts like a Hurst.

Neither, it would have had an Inland shifter. The Inland was round with a tee on it for reverse lockout.

Before you start taking the gear set out of it make sure that the brass synchro’s aren’t stuck to the gear cones. In neutral the brass synchro’s should spin freely.

Did it have gear oil in it?

You should get a copy of Jamie Passion’s book. It’s a great guide on rebuilding the 833.Books

Nope, the outside diameter of the 308 bearing is slightly larger than the input shaft gear so it goes in the front. Last year I completely rebuilt my tranny and replaced the input shaft. I pulled the shaft from a spare tranny and pulled the 308 bearing and installed the 307 bearing.

An input shaft with the 308 bearing will also come out the front.