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Drag your adapter across sand paper on a flat surface on the block surface until the entire surface is shiny (flat) before installing. I had a major leak on mine, did this with new gaskets and no leak. You might as well be proactive prior to installing.

9 to 12 mpg depending on where and how I am driving. I definitely don't drive it trying to get better mileage. That's with 3.23 gears.

I wonder if E 51035 was referring to a custom cam grind profile....I know when I had mine ground it had a reference number for the grind profile.

Not sure if this is an option in your area but if you re-jet it you can consider running it on E85 as well. I understand as long as you don't let it sit for long periods the requirement to run stainless steel for your fuel system is just a myth. I am doing this with an old project I have that I...

I wanted Torque for the street so I went with the following set up and am very happy with the results. 416 Scat forged internals, zero deck with -20.5 dish (9.7:1) with 68CC X ported heads. Air Gap w/ 750 Speed Demon and smaller 1 5/8 Hooker headers (power steering) so probably not too far off...

Indy offeres more HP at the same price out of a small block mopar. I don't think it has a warranty like the ford motor though.

Not an expert but this is bugging me so I need to chime in. I also have a Scat forged and I thought they had a radius on the journal instead of a fillet to make them stronger (so you need special bearings to match). Could this be contributing to this problem. Again if I am way off base please...

Did you rotate the motor (turn the crank by hand) while you are priming the pump? You need to to get it up to the heads.

I went shopping for oil a week or two ago. I had used Kendall 20w50 GT1 high performance in the past and after looking at all the high ZDDP content oils and bought another case of this. Valvoline and similar were 5.99 a quart but the ZDDP was $3.18 a quart. Extra $2 to $3 a quart costs me $18...

I had one on my 340 Duster in the late 80's. It pulled hard well past 6000 rpm. I also remember the middle bolts to be a PIA to tighten/loosen (on a hot summer day). One of those turn a few degrees flip wrench kindof deals.

I was just going to say the same....I have an old beam wrench that I use for final torques.

Mine was leaking about a quart every 100 miles and I figured it was coming from the adapter. I tried tightening the big bolt but it kept leaking and then got the surface flat using the drag across sandpaper trick and put it back together with the gasket set without sealant that I got right from...

Sorry No

Take the adapter off. Put a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and drag the adapter across a few times until the entire surface is shiny. Put the gasket set on without any sealant and you will have no more leaks.

Is this the shot you wanted of the power steering? Just looking through some old pics on my computer. My Barracuda is hibernating 40 miles from here.

I transferred this same setup from my 318 that was in the car to my 416 in the picture. It has power steering as well that you said you wanted to see in the OP.

I have a Scat forged build 416 with ported heads, stock trans 2800 stall, and 3.23 rear. I am so pleased so far but need to build the trans soon and upgrade cooling a bit. I have receipts over 10K right so far but that is including all the other things you need when rebuilding and installing a...

You will love it. My relatively mild 416 was built and installed 2009 and and it has been great with the auto and 3.23 gears as well. I never had it dyno'd but it also is very easy to live with even with power steering and brakes. With no sure grip it will light up the rear wheel no problem at...

Growing up in Soo Canada there were propane vehicle filling stations in 5 or 6 places around town. I was changing oil as a high school job back then and you could tell when a propane powered vehicle came in as the oil was absolutely new in color when you drained it. Diesels were blacker than...

click click boom!

krazykuda you beat me....if you want a truely tiny filter with the same threads and gasket the ph3614 works. This was the filter on the old 2.2's but could work on a V8 Mopar or Ford if space was that much of a problem. I worked a few years in an oil change shop so we had to come up with some...

Fram is PH43 which I used to use and now I use the Wix 51068. Shorter full sized. I also used the PH8A Fram for the longer filter when it used to fit. Same filters as what fits on the older V8 fords (302, 351 etc) before they went modular. If you need a skinny filter the PH3600 is the same...

It's been a rough year with family health and a couple new jobs due to plants closing here in Michigan but I am finally working a stable new job, family obligations are in line and this weekend it is time to get my 68 Formula S with its new 416 (finished late last year) just before I put it away...

I have a 68 Formula S and struggled a bit with that same thing when I did my 416 stroker. I went with Mopar/Hemi orange and am glad I did. I have an off brand motor I built that I painted black and covered the frost plugs so they were still gold in color. It looks OK but kindof looks like a...

I have a 416 stroker with ported X heads. Looks like a stock 340 when you open the hood but WOW! when you want it. Strokers like more cam. I am very happy with my results.

Just had a 416 stroker done for my 68 Formula S Barracuda last summer. That's the way I would go if I were you. I had mine done with ported X heads but with headers for the stock look but if you are thinking of going 6.1L I would go with aluminum heads and headers instead since original looking...

If you are waiting until morning to do this fire it up now that it is dark out and see if anything is arcing under the hood while it is running. Can't hurt.

If the lower pulley doesn't seem to line up for all the bolt holes one may need to be slotted a bit with a file. I think some of the internal balance cranks had one hole a little offset. I put a two groove pulley on my motor and one didn't quite line up.

If it started all of the sudden you may have a stretched timing chain that skipped a tooth.

I had the same problem. I changed all the gaskets, tightened it up and it still leaked after a little bit. I took the 90 degree adapter off and drug it across some fine sand paper on a flat surface until the entire surface was shiny. Put it back on with new gaskets and no more leak....