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dont use , graphite, or anti-seize compound. cause if it gets on the points it conducts electricity. and cause it to have ruff running.

here is a hint for the chrysler elec ign. DO carry two spar ballast resistors in the glove box. they tend to go out in the heat and cold.

here is my hint of the week. ALL WAYS carry two spares in the glove box.

this is a little off the subject. bu i thought it was interesting. i read an aritcal in a mag years ago. by a former chrysler engineer. he said that in the early 60 the bean counters talked him in to putting only one turn light on the dash.

generally pumps will draw so much AMPs with no pressure. then with more pressure the amps will go up. but should have a limit that it will not go past even with full load. i have worked on industrial oil pumps that put out 5,000 to 6,000 PSI. and as much as 50 - 60 gal per...

on the chrysler electronic ignition i have used . i used .045" . but not sure it was better. the old Delta mark 10 was a kit. it all so has switch to from C.I.D to std. i got mine from Radio Shack. my first time soldering electronics. back in the early 70s. you can...

a real Capacitive discharge ignition like the old Delta mark 10B. can work with as much as .060-.080" gap. they will even fire a fuel fowled plugs. once i had 1957 dodge P.U with the old flat head 6. my friend had a set of fuel fowled plugs from a race 383. i put some in my 6...

the electronic ignition chrysler came out with in the early 70s is about as good as it gets. but do carry two ballast resisters in your glove box. as they tend to go bad in cod or hot weather. no one calls it a bad thing to put this system on an older mopar.

i found that if you put a ground wire on the screw on the points the points last longer and make better spark. but the routing is tricky cause to ground the points it has a lot of stuff to go thruo, housing ect.

the system will work fine with the aluminum housing. the duel point is not that hard to get work good. if you dont know the duel point was to get a longer dwell angle on the coil. the longer dwell angle would let the coil build up more power. one set of points was the close set the...

well all of the auto grounding and most other things i have seen is black. my RC cars, the battery. so why is trailer wired like a house? i have done electronics , computer, network ect school 2 year. i guess some people want their system like they want it. after all remember...

after seeing smittys post on grounding it reminded me of my grounding trouble on a trailer. have a trailer with a big box. and 14 or 16 lights. with a 4 wire connector. and taking 100 hours putting the lights on, it seemed like. side note here, why on earth some one uses a white wire...

time for the VOM. ck the volt at the coil with key in run position. hint from my old dad. "check the easiest and cheapest things first."

in 1984 i bought a new fury pl. and of course bought the factory service manual. in about 4 mo the horn stopped working. so in the manual the horn section. the VERY first paragraph said that if the horn stops working. put it in park and turn the key to run. some combination of...

thats what she said last nite.

remember the electrons DO know the color of the wires. and get mad if the wire is the wrong color.

check the bit bucket the smoke might in there.

dont for get to carry two ballasts in your glove box. they tend to go out in the cold and heat. and they dont have to be bolted the the body. my 77 dodge pick up one got broke when water ran under it and got froze. so it lived the rest of its life hanging out in the open.

an easy way to check the coil. get an analog meter. set the scale to the lowest A / C setting. put the meter probes into two wires from the coil. order doesnt matter. then spin the shaft. if the coil is good the needle will move. i have only done this one time. so i cant say how...

my 1967 dart / charger factory service manual shows point gap at .014"--.019" but i have found on the big blocks IF the points set flat to each other .015' will get you 42 degrees. my book calls out one set 27 degree to 31 degree. and both sets 36 degree to 40 degree total. DO NOT set...

after haveing drove a lot of the early chryslers with amp gauges. and now driving a dakota with a volt gauge i like the volt gauge much better. an AMP gauge only shows the AMPs being used. has nothing to do with the battery volts. IMHO

iam going to guess to the plus side. that way it can "see" the radio.

radio shack. photo beam. home made.

to test the reluctor wires. get an anlog meter. set it on the lowest A / C setting. put the meter probes in the two wires from the dist. when the dist is spun you will get needle movement if the retuctor is good.

My dad made this saying about chrysler V8 small and big block dist cap wireing. To reduce wiring confuseion. “the small block has the dist in the wrong place, in the back of the engine. BUT the shaft rotates the right way clockwise. The big block has the dist in the right place...

but helps if you put the bit bucket in the right place.

even thou the chrysler electronic ignition is very good. it only makes 35 degree dwell angle. years ago i got the 65 300 L iron duel point dist to get the factory spec dwell of 42 degrees.

IMHO. the volt gauge is very good. it will show you your batt voltage. an AMP gauge will not. and easy to install.

+2

grounds? well i just looked at my 1967 dart factory service manual. the electric, engine, body sections have NO pics of grounds. but we all know it does have some grounds.