Search results for query: *

I have them on my Dart Proforged 101-10298 Proforged Tall Upper Ball Joint

A few pics may serve to better inform. No apparent Ackermann issue with a modified steering geometry. The Welded steering arm and stock knuckle gives some pause

imo /6 K-frame is FAR better than a V8 for a G3 Hemi swap in an A-body. It really simplifies the oil filter. How long did Schumacher say they'd be on backorder?

Perfect idea. 1971 A-body biscuit mount(2266) vs 1974 318 B-van(2265). The Van's mount is noticeably thicker and will raise the engine just enough to cure some fitment headaches. Hedmann sells a few different thicknesses too.

A lot of guesses about bump stops but QA1 LCA have neither the same issues as a stock LCA nor the same remedies. Probably a good idea to make sure your Qa1 actually have bump stops at all. Or if it DOES, is it adjusted properly??? This one here is set WAY TOO HIGH

That would be a great resource to have.

Fenders most likely No. I've looked into it and its a wash at best. Factory fenders just don't weigh that much. So the "lightweight" fiberglass fenders don't save much and typically suffer from poor fit and finish. The "HD" fiberglass have better fit and finish but weigh as much as oem steel. A...

lol,,yes passenger side

I'd still say that improving the Front/Rear weight distribution is a higher priority. The Cg position is going to favor the front end and be too high unless you go to more drastic lengths to strip weight. A +40lb ballast that is the battery needs to be put where it makes the most difference...

Most are not. Most V8 street combos are closer to 60/40 than to 50/50. Easy front end diet: Trunk mounted battery Manual steering No A/C Lightweight Disk brakes and wheels. Aluminum radiator On my Swinger, I've gone so far as to swap in a 340lb, 300hp 3.6L Pentastar. It's not only a couple...

Not sure whats more amazing, the car on 3 wheels or that the trunk is big enough and strong enough to hold 2000lb of "ballast".

The design of our factory suspension was superior, for its day. BUT its NOT sacrilegious to say most of this once "great" design needs A LOT of help. We prove that ourselves everyday with the mods we do and KNOW WORK! Factory Design has far too little Caster and Camber and worse, INCAPABLE of...

wow,,You're the type that even I jack up your heap and show you your dented frame you'd spew pages of drivel and rationalization before accepting even the possibility of a better way than yours. Waste of time,, obviously

lol when only 50 words were needed 3/8" tall bump stop!?! LOL!!

I know this will solicit a 2500 word manifesto on how it's practically perfect on your car, but oh well The tiny lump of a "bump stop", that you swear to never be without (better than nothing?), just shrunk the contact distance to the frame to less than an ~.8125"(1.5"-.6875") and cut available...

I'm all for lowering the Roll Center but not when the LCA can barely move more than 1.5" before crashing into the frame. Not on a street car with sane wheel rates & a Stock LCA. Several years ago, Firm feel adapted 73 B-Body LCA to FIX the pot hole = bent arm scenario but keep the lower RC. It...

Shoot for a Front roll couple in the 80-85% of the total Roll rate and it should wind up with a decent neutral handling starting point. Avoid lowering the front end too much with stock Knuckles. You lose a heap ton of jounce travel and can easily bottom out the LCA on the frame. If you ever...

The QA1 just comes with longer Bolts with a washer for the front. Nothing special Not sure what he was trying to do but I guess he used the threaded to help install? Hard telling The front bolt is a pretty tight fit with the front tubes and doesnt really provide any room for "adjustment" at...

I've been setting Toe for years on all my cars with just fishing line, ruler and 1/8 steel & grease slip plates. Too easy to pay someone. But never had an accurate way to measure Caster, at least one that I was confident in. So when this late 80s Hunter F111 optical popped up on Craigslist for...

my thoughts exactly. Considering its free and only takes ~15min Looks like it could easily accept -1" in front.

That or any 73 and newer B-Body or Cordoba. Early B-vans and D150 had a similar steering arm.

So foam was meant to flow in and around these plastic gussets or were the gusseting more to contain the foam in a certain area? Do you have an pictures of what your referencing? If the best outcome had is sound deadening, nothing wrong with that.

Absolutely,,,,,I appreciate everyone's input but can't contain my eye rolls & face palms after reading from the misinformed and self-identified "experts" preaching fire and brimstone,,, lol. Moving on: This method of quantifing torsional rigidity seems reasonable. 1. Level car on 4 stands...

LOL,,,,,,some of these "yeah but" and "what if" excuses are pretty laughable even if I didn't have a BS in mechanical engineering. Total cost is currently estimated to be ~$150. That'll get me total cured volume ~2ft3 of the 8lb/ft3 density foam. I'll post the % improvement in torsional rigidity.

Not seeing much to be scared of guys. Few if any disadvantages of Structural foam if used with a little forethought. If it provides ZERO added torsional rigidity and just quiets the whole car, would it still be a worthless effort? Don't guys wind up spending much more time & money just on...

wow,,,,,I'll try to be less verbose. I've spent weeks being trained in using FEA and CFD software and use it regularly. I'm well aware of the caveats. All tests started with FEA but I believe at least 2 of them validated their model with bodies in white. The mazda beam was tested such that...

Obviously no such thing in an ABody. Most of a modern car's crumple zone is from the A pillar forward. Maintaining the integrity of the passenger compartment space frame is what's most important in a crash to protect the occupants. I think all the SAE papers reference that.

In all the 3 SAE papers, the joint where the A pillar meets the cowl and roof panel was very important. I was looking at this cavity(high up to avoid any moisture). Door hinge mounting is a bit in the way on both ends of the A pillar, unfortunately

I was looking at these joints in the rockers where it "connects to the A & B pillar. (note the lack of any internal structure) Fill the rocker cavity in those areas and partially into the pillars themselves