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Apparently smaller bore = more pedal travel = pedal closer to the floor on hard application. Seems it's a bit of a balancing act with several influences and repercussions. I'll just start trying and as I said,try a different bore if I'm not happy.

Thanks for the reply. No one seems to have a definitive answer and trying to check what was original seems to come up with several different answers. I seem to have found they came in bores of 1 1/8",1 1/32",1" and 15/16". Can't find any reference to 1 1/16" which is what was in...

Just pulled the MC out of my challenger and it's actually 1 1/16" bore. The new one I have is 1 1/8" bore. You mentioned with non boosted brakes I should be using 1" bore. Can someone tell me what I SHOULD have in there? I'm happy to purchase the correct part so it's not about trying to...

This is on my challenger but the same MC as on my 72 dart and 69 cuda. Below is a pic which explains it all. My car was originally a 1970 318 non boosted disc front drum rear. It's now a 440 non boosted disc front drum rear. The master installed is the one that came on the car when I got it...

The hold down bolt is bolt and vent in one that I'm using. Very typical of Australian setups.

I just got one made for my dart swinger. The hose and 3 outlet block is all one piece.

Done plenty of drum to disc conversions but never actually measured if it changed the track width. Even if it did it wouldn't be a problem since the front track width should be wider than the rear anyway.

Mate,got the same header issues as you in my 440 barracuda. I run TRW GrandPrix600 fluid in it. It's a Dot4 572F boiling point. Not cheap but it solved a lot of problems!!!

Remote power booster setup? Early Australian valiants used remote boosters.Not sure if they appeared in US cars. Personally I prefer to delete the booster.Particularly with cams that kill vacuum. Other pluses are tidier engine bay (and therefore easier to work around) less to go wrong and...