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In a shocking turn of events, it turns out an ebay seller lied. The pullout I got came from a 2007 car, not a 2010 so that would make this a T56, not a TR6060. I'm still planning to use as much of the stock bellhousing/clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing as possible. Everything is in the car...

Yes, I lowered the car over the engine. Besides the minor bit of frame rail trimming to clear the alternator (see posts 54 and 59), it was pretty straightforward. I used the shock towers on the AlterKtion to make sure I was lined up correctly side to side.

I'm curious: what's the benefit of the conversion adapter over having a custom driveshaft made? We've got a shop about an hour away that does custom driveshafts. They made a couple for my truck and did a good job. I was planning to just have them make me one when the time comes.

It's pretty tight. I think it might need a bit of massaging. Did you go with a flanged driveshaft or did you convert yours to a slip-yoke?

About to start tacking the crossmember together

About 3 degrees

I haven't been back out to the garage yet. It's been awfully hot here lately and the excuses practically make themselves.

1.5 o.d DOM tube fits perfect in the torsion bar crossmember. Engine, trans and front suspension all ready to go in I've got the transmission crossmember designed and about half done with the fabrication. Expect to finish that up next weekend. I wasn't able to get anywhere near 1 degree...

I have a plan for the transmission mount, basically copying what @Dragger40 did. Going to weld in a couple inches of the DOM tube in the torsion bar crossmember. That will hold the bushings and add stiffness after the center section was hacked out. Still planning to build a floor support over...

I'm also interested in this bit of advice.

Progress

Looks like the alternator is going to hit a small extension off the frame rail. Is it okay to whack that sucker off with a cutoff wheel or do I need a different front accessory drive?

After almost a year of other projects getting in the way, finally got back to the Duster this weekend. Cut out the spare tire well and got the core support stiffener mostly welded in. Started to put the oil pan on the motor, but realized this motor is not a 2010 as I thought but is instead...

Thanks! How is access to the rear seat? How are the bolsters in aggressive cornering? Think they'd fit a wide body (300lb)?

I also would like to know exactly what seats those are and what mounting solution was used. They look fantastic. Edit: Maybe the Moab? Moab - Reclining Seats - Corbeau Racing Seats

I'm really tempted to do a 426 stroker. Anybody got a good machine shop in Los Angeles that can be trusted with such a job?

I found out after it got to the blaster that they cannot sandblast the undercoating. If I had known beforehand, I would have scraped it off myself. It didn't make sense to have them bring the car back, so it looks like I'm paying them to scrape off the undercoating. Sucks, but I really want to...

It's off to sandblasting

Stripped down the doors and fenders and got everything ready to go to sandblasting. The sandblaster comes Friday to pick her up.

It was a Dewalt that I busted and a Dewalt that's on its way from Amazon. Agree they're great. I'm really not crazy about the Auto-Set on the Millermatic 211. It just puts way too much wire speed. From here on, I'm going to manually set the wire speed. Grinder's been getting a workout with...

Pretty successful weekend, I'd say. Got the car completely stripped. Every last clip, screw and bolt is out. Almost finished the frame repair. Was about half an hour from being done when the angle grinder died.

If you look closely, you can see lots of places where the frame and underbody have been smashed on rocks. Combined with the amount of mud caked on everything, we're thinking this car spent some time off-road.

I think @Riddler might be using the hotwire setup. Maybe he can answer some of the other questions. I, too, am curious if there are limits to the tuning capabilities of the stock ECU+hotwire+diablosport setup.

The reflash is just to remove the stock encryption. After that, I can use the diablosport to tune it, but realistically I'll take it to Westech and have them tune it on the dyno The "gold box" is mostly just nicer packaging, including a pre-built wiring harness.

I think I'm leaning toward hotwire. Total cost will be about $1800: Harness: $1050 Reflash ECU: $250 Diablosport tuner: $500 The MS3 gold box is about the same amount once you buy a throttle body. The others are all at least $1k more expensive.

Seems like a good deal. That tick is very common. In my '04 5.7, topping up the oil made it go away.

This is why I hate dealing with businesses over the phone. People screw up. Computer's dont. Looks like a Duster and a Chevelle are not quite the same thing. I've still got some work to do on this damned rotisserie. Unfortunately, the bumper mounting is far off from vertical, so I need to...

Good advice, @retroron. I've decided on the StreetLynx, Ford 9" and mini tubs for the rear. I believe this setup will work with exhaust and stock tank, but I will find out.

I hit some of the rustier floor spots with the wire wheel. I don't see any other places the rust has penetrated through, although I see some spots where the metal now has a rough texture. Should I be patching these spots?