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Yes, when operating correctly, oil should come out of those holes.

I've done this alone by zip thing the trigger on the drill. Then turning the crank slowly. Should see oil, relatively quickly.

With the high flow water pump I would install a high flow thermostat. Like a Robert Shaw. That way the motor can take advantage of the high flow pump.

Wow! Big difference. How does it idle now?

My thoughts as the they kept the high idle to keep it running smooth. Does the problem get be better just off idle? Meaning, does it smooth out if you raise it off idle?

I must be lucky, I guess. I have the 703 in my 340 with Edelbrock alum heads. I got through to Lunati no issue and was recommended that cam.

Lol. Crazy how soo many people have different experiences. I drove a mild 318/904 for years with no issues. Lots of drag strip passes and burnouts.

@Rover125 I have a set of KB243 pistons for a 340 .040 over. KB KB243.040 Keith Black KB Performance Pistons | Summit Racing They have virtually no miles on them. Let me know if interested.

If you call them they will explain it to you what needs to be done I went through the same thing when installing my aluminum heads. Edelbrock recommends the felpro 1008 in the install literature, so I would just use those.

If the motor had that many issues, I would suggest having the block checked out first to be sure your bores are still true and .030 replacements can be used. Nothing worse than assuming and then having it all go wrong.

You gotta re ead their questions. You keep repeating what you've already done. Saying you have power means nothing, you have to check for voltage at certain places on the ballast and/or bypass it to rule that out. Just as a start.

Sweet.

With all the lifter talk lately, where does Ken source them?

A customer came in today that owns a machine shop and was buying a set of factory lifters for a 454. (I manage the Parts Department at a GM dealer) We got to talking about lifter quality and.he said the factory stuff is the only ones worth a darn anymore. I told him I was surprised they were...

I figured. I was just teasing. Looking good!

No Hemi Orange?!

@replicaracer43 Any updates?

No, the 50 was on the Hughes cam.

Dang,.maybe I have something wrong in my numbers. I haven't bought anything yet, except the rotating assembly and the heads. So the HG and cam can be altered once actual compression is measured. But I do know the pistons are out the hole .018.

The 6cc is wrong from what I understand from KB. They said to use 7.3. I'm going to have my machinist measure actual compression,.so I can be sure and go from there.

I wasn't worried about anything until I read Dave's email. I don't want it to be a dog, that's for sure. BUT I'm not looking for a race car.

Yes

Definitely the latter. Lol. Thanks for the reassurance.

Ok. I guess I was thrown by what Dave at Hughes said about the compression was working against me. I emailed him back to clarify. I though the dcr was right where folks like it for pump gas.

Thank you. So what do you think of the calculated numbers above?

Not saying it's impossible to tune or that it's impossible to run at 10" of vacuum. I've seen guys run as little as 6". I just want to make my life a little easier. I've been under the hood of this car longer than it's been on the road. To be honest, I'm losing interest due to burn out. I...

I don't want the thread to get too off track here. Back to the main question. How do my numbers look in the calculator? To me they looked pretty good so maybe I'm missing something.

If the piston is .018 out the hole it's open for that reason? They are only 2 cc different between the two part numbers.

Yes, Fitech EFI. They are easier to tune with a higher vacuum reading for the MAP sensor.

Great question. Not sure why he said that.maybe a typo. I emailed back with a screenshot of the calculator.