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You're a bit of a drive away from the Left coast. Would the backing plates from any B or late A body work in their place? I think even the early 8 3/4 P/U's rear brakes would bolt up. I'd have to measure the axle flange to housing flange to be sure but anything is possible I suppose... How much...

I'm really trying to avoid the 8 3/4 as the Kids don't need it (yet) behind a /6. I have an A body, and the early B body, 8 3/4 housing and small circle axles laying about. But, knowing how kids are, I'd rather not have it in the car when it gets in it's first wreck. I'm trying to save it for...

Yeah, my Dart's 8 3/4 was a re-drill job also. But it was done by the owner of the donor car I got it from. He had it done by Currie Ent' out here. I called them about it, but they need to have one of the axles out of it and the bearing removed to see if it will chuck up in their machine. At...

Ain't that the way. Just when you thought you could put an end run on a problem the engineers get a clue and booger the whole thing. :banghead: Well, I guess I need the whole thing. *sigh*

Will the axles, and drums, interchange directly with the earlier 5 on 4" BC 7 1/4 or do you have to get the whole thing? I need to update two different A bodies for the larger circle, one I've put large BC disc brakes on already, so I need to make the rear wheels match. I'm about to do the same...

Given the opportunity, I mean, if the whole things in the shop, wouldn't milling the block be an easier thing as the pistons sit sooooo far down in the hole to begin with? Isn't the deck much thicker than the head surface? Either way you're looking at a push rod problem beyond a certain point...

My apologies for the unsavory use of the "fingers" I didn't realize that was what it was until now. I thought it was thumbs. My bad, nothing meant by it guys. Sorry.

It's not turquoise, but we knew that. The blue anybody has is either dark or For-duh, which isn't right either. As near as I could get was a Valspar color at Lowe's called Gloss "Exotic sea". It appears to be similar to the right blue but not exactly right. It is definitely more blue than green...

It's black. I've had real bad luck with black engines (see pics) so I don't do those anymore. Besides all that does is hide the oil leaks. P.S. That used to be a Mega block... ...and it's real embarrassing when the track official hands you back your connecting rod.

I've done that too, actually. But a white slant six... just wouldn't be right. Although just plain uncolored & unpainted natural works too... :finga:

My friends would cry if they saw those aluminum heads painted. They gave me such crap over that when I did it I finally stripped them on the next incarnation of the engine just to shut them up. I like it actually.

The two pic's are of unchanged engines. The one in my car has been replaced and painted a dark blue and black which is, pretty obviously, wrong as the original color is the lighter shade (peeling paint on valve cover). I was just curious if anyone else has came across this and what they used to...

1970 Slant 6 225. I'm trying to find the right color for the engine but it seems to be an odd ball color. MP says it should be medium blue from 72 up to 83 for all production engines except 2.2L. But it is not the right color, it's too dark. The turquoise doesn't appear right either.What I have...