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What is your vacuum reading in park and in gear? What power valve is in there? Check to see if your holley has screens at the fuel inlets. One of mine did, one didnt. If your needle and seat are old, they may be sticking.

I did not see it posted, but what carb setup do you have?

The secondary idle screw is for a fine tuning of the idle circuit, not to match the front. Set it to where I mentioned, then proceed to turn in EVER SO SLIGHTLY IF NEEDED. I have had anywhere from 1/16 to an 1/8 turn more be just enough to get the carb to run just right.

Set it so it just touches the throttle linkage, then 1/4 turn in more. If you have a short ratchet handle with a interchangeable bits, you can sometimes do it with the carb on the car. Your access with the intake manifold will decide that.

Run the car without a fuel cap, or with it loose. If it is not venting, that could be an issue.

Start with changing the fuel filter. Then check all other tune up parts. Start with that.

Make sure float drop is set to 15/16". Start with the acc pump in the middle hole. Move to top or bottom hole if needed. Most "carb techs" dont check float drop but it is vital for an eddy to work right. Also the first step up on eddy carbs is a rod change NOT jets. Put it back to stock and...

Total timing is too much. Drop it down to 35*.

#1 8534 Contact crackedback for the bushings.

Really? Damn!.... Pm me. Got some customers cars I might need a few. We have a customers 66 Nova witha 427 small block and a .630 solid roller. Initial is at 24*/total at 34* with a 10* bushing. Idles pretty good @ 900rpm considering that cam. Didnt drill the throttle blades either.

Cracked back said it right.... alot of carb problems aint carb at all... Set that piece of sh*t mopar distributor aside and buy the MSD Pro Billet that matches so you have the trio. Better end play on shaft, better bearings than a stock MP distributor. Then before you install it, order the...

Put a vacuum gauge on it. What does it read in park and in drive?

Yes... more initial. My 274xe wanted 20*. And that was in the 230's @ .050. What distributor do you have? You should tighten that centrifugal curve down to 10-14*.

If you take it to a machine shop, they can mill it out and make a brass/bronze bushing for it. Call the carb shops http://www.thecarbshop.com/ http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/

The fitting he has pictured shows an inverted flare to barbed hose, not an AN fitting, plus he needs standard flare. AN fitting would work, but way more expensive.

I don't believe it's far from the truth. I do agree with you about the magnum heads though. We are dealing with LA heads in this post. That is what my comments are based on. I know magnum heads take less timing and have a good quench area as well. From my experience, the LA heads that have...

Do you have a newer MP dist? My old one had like a 25* curve....just plain pitiful. If yours is the newer style with the socket cap screws, you can just tighten up the mech advance curve. More timing = more octane.....and vice versa.

I agree. No 10.5:1 iron headed engine can run on 89 unless you have severely retarded timing. Do a comp test and get some PSI #'s. That will give you a better idea of your static compression. I bet if you installed an MSD dist, with the 18* bushing, 2 light blue springs, and set your initial...

That cam runs better at about 2000 rpms and up. What vacuum do you have at idle? What PV is in that carb? It also sounds like you might have a vacuum leak.

Probably up, but you need to drive it and check the plugs .....strokers do like gas... that sure is a mild cam for a 408...

True, brass floats do not have the notches for jet extensions. I have never had a problem with the plastic ones(nitrophyl). I have had brass ones develop a tiny hole by the soldered seam and slowly sink.

The floats are nitrophyl, a type of plastic. I would look at the hinged area by the needle and seat to check for any reason it would hang up, as well as check to see if it does touch the jet extensions.

Kori, No offense taken, I myself like to use stainless not just for "show" cars, but cars that actually get driven rain or shine. regular steel can rust faster than you think. Trust me I understand the frustration that SS can give you....I usually polish it til it looks like trim as well...

Installed quite a few and my head is just fine...with the right tools to flare, and doing the job right it works great...yeah it does cost more. Secondly, what part of flaring is going to leak on a front to rear fuel line????? It has a bubbled end at each end.....where rubber hose goes on...

It's no more than 12 inches of rubber line combined. Some cars I work on have 2-3 sections of fuel line with rubber sections connecting them. This is factory too. I would personally order the new line is SS and get new clips for the 3/8 line as well....It's not that hard to fish in. just...

Fishy hit the nail on the head. Fender washers..... alos make sure to shoot a bunch of spray silicone from the top down inside the housing so the cable slides free.

Sounds like you need idle restrictors put in your metering blocks. They allow more tuning of the idle mix screws.

How much vacuum are you running? If its low, the PV could be putting in extra gas at idle. You need WAY MORE initial timing on that cam. I ahve the same cam and I have it at 17* for now but might bump it up more.

Well I heard from a few folks that Edelbrock's new pump (made by Essex) is pretty quiet. I myself couldn't stand the noise that my holley electric made, I mean I was on the steps of the psych ward about to strap in my own straight jacket. Just out of curiosity, why not run a holley...

Yep about 45 bucks at summit.