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Thanks, Mystery solved. after spending 2 hrs with a Napa guy, we have figured out that its 68 or so, GTO, Cutlass, Chevelle, Tempest, El Camino, thank god

Hey guys, As most of you know my wife has a 41 Chrysler street Rod with a 38 Chevy nose, with GM subframe. Its time to rebuild the front end and steering box. the original builder built it 30 yrs ago, and doesn't remember what he used to build it. He said 70 Monte or Nova, but the...

Unless someone change the gears already, this is a clone bee, started life as a coronet 440 with a 318, probably came with a 2:76, 2:93 or a 3:23, I will take the other center section out tomorrow

440

the Duster has the 742, the Bee has a 741, guess i will find out tomorrow what ratio it is

I couldnt edit my original post So i took the Duster 8 3/4 out, it looks like its in pretty good shape, no play in anything. Its a 2:76 Sure Grip. Before is swap it to the Bee, i was thinking if it would really be worth swapping it if the Bee has a 2:93, or 3:23. Sure i would loaf along on...

thanks everyone for your input

should be ok, both are about 10.25 inches from the base of the pumpkin to the u joint cup

Hey guys, i am thinking i need to do a center section swap on my cars. The Bee (clone) has a 741 8 3/4 one legger in it, the 73 Duster has a 8 3/4 Sure Grip 742 in it. pics below The 742 i think is a 3:23, (marked tire and driveshaft and the tire went 3 revs and the driveshaft went a...

The front was rebuilt a few yrs ago, no slop in the front, just land yatch handleing

He eveyone, my 70 Duster, the one in the profile pic, slant six car, has been lowered, and it has always wallowed like a big car around corners. I was thinking about putting the larger PST torsion bars and new shocks on it. Does anyone know if the one inch bars, or the .92 bars are a direct fit?

thanks guys, i will try that mod

Hey guys. I have been wondering what can be done to stiffen up the "no feel" power steering both of our Dusters. I have always disliked the light steering on Mopars. The Coronet has really stiff power steering, no idea what has been done to it, it looks stock and i have not been able to...

If the bushings were shot you would be feeling/hearing clunky noises, and the steering would pull a bit when stopping, and make weird noises that you would feel in the wheel and your foot when sitting still and turning the wheel. My wheel cylinder locked up on the freeway and blew my bushings...

Havnt got it aligned yet, so i havent driven it since i got home, but it seems a lot better

get the Poly set, i spent $100 in effort and labor pounding out those lower bushings for the original rubber set. And try to find someone with a lift. I cant imagine doing it on the ground on my back

Just finished my suspension rebuild, wow, lots of work. I was doing it at a friends place with a lift and a press, and air. I cant imagine doing it on my back on a garage floor. Man, I am exausted. took me about 15 hrs total. I bought the original kit, rubber, not Poly, had to bang out...

I will do a bit more searching, should be online somewhere. At least it drives straight and all, alighnment looks good from the front at least. Still gotta adjust the headlights a bit

Oh sorry, its a 71 Slant 6 Scamp

So i measured everything this weekend and yanked my old torsion bars and shocks out of the front end of the scamp and replaced them. It actually turned out really good, except it looks like it is sitting a little high in front, maybe due to it was lowered in the front since i had it...

Thanks

Do you need a puller to remove it? Non tilt,

Thanks Redfish, speaking of seized bearings, while cruising down the freeway yesterday, a wheel with a axel stub goes bouncing down the freeway, a guy in the right lane braked real hard and the tire bounced right over the car. Never saw the car it came from, it was bouncing toward us, must...

I have been smelling that mechanical greasy hot smell after getting out of the car after driving sometimes. Pulled the drums on the Scamp to adjust the brakes and found the seal on the left rear starting to leak. Is it correct to take the axels out, just take the flange bolts off and yank...

never mind on that last question, i found the answer. Another question though. Everyone says the drive shaft needs shortening. What part was longer, the shaft on the axle or if the car has a 727, the tailshaft?

Thanks everyone, How can you tell a 904 apart from a 727? My car as well as the duster had /6's. I am doing the swap more for the power brakes, disks and large bolt pattern wheels, rather than the larger rear, as i may just leave the 6 in there and do the intake/exhaust mod later.

Thanks Moparbrit, i will search for that post

Redfastback, I dont really understand your post. I am swapping the whole axle, it is still complete with backing plates, Ubolts etc. Are you saying usually have to cut them because they are rusted? Is the driveshaft longer then my original? Put the spindles to the rear? Meaning swap...

So i found a totaled 74 Duster that had a /6 in it. Planning to to the rear axle and disk brake swap on my 71 Scamp. Is there anything i should know besides the obvious before i start? Is the rear axle a straight swap? Do i need to modify anything? I assume i can set them next to each...

Thanks you guys