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I put my 21 circuit up above the driver's side kick panel area. If I did it again I would make a panel behind the glove box. I wish I would have gotten a 12 circuit instead, too many wires and bulk. For the bulkhead I had a stainless steel plate and hogged out a hole for the grommet.

Very cool idea. I came across this in a youtube rabbit hole and wondered if anyone had started a thread on it. @jbc426 wondering what you still think and if any pesky ruskies have hacked it yet.......

Thanks Del. Yes, I have the post 70' 2-field alternator. Sorry for the confusion.

Hello Folks I hope all is well. I am installing a new wiring harness from Rebel Wire and I am having a hard time wrapping my head around the use of the exciter wire. The exciter wire goes straight to the fuse block. From what I can understand is that it simply relays voltage back to the...

I think you are looking for individual DIY sets but if you ever look for a pre-made harness these guys are the best I could find: Rebel Wire .:. Wire Kits for Real Rods Their 9+3 Circuit Harness is $205 16 Circuit is $235 21 Circuit $254

Price is relative. I have done partial harnesses and enjoyed doing them but with a 10 and 4 year old in the mix and almost no time to work on the car these days un-interrupted every 5 minutes, <$500 for a high-quality printed sleeve kit just works. I want this to be done once, done right, and...

Rebel Wire made in Tennessee with printed sxl wire 12 circuit kit $235, 21 circuit kit $255. Rebel Wire .:. Wire Kits for Real Rods I am rewiring the entire car. Going to take my time and make it as nice as possible.

Kind of telling that the 50year old USA original goes back in to replace a 3 year old "Hecho in Mexico" part.

It was the starter relay.

Start. On the ignition switch that post is labeled "ing" All of my car's info is right there in my signature. Edit: just remembered mobile browsers won't show sigs. It's a 66 Barracuda

Thanks MP. Have an HEI dist so the BR is bypassed. 12v to the post though. Seems to have 12v all the way to the ignition switch. Since the switch and connection back to the bulkhead test out on the ohms meter I wonder if something is shorted out or broken in the starter relay? I'll report back...

Thanks Dave, I have a volt meter installed with the bypass. The car runs great with minimal voltage drop (just tested @ .04v). Did a total connector clean out and replaced the engine bay harness a few years back. Car gets driven almost daily. I think I have pinpointed it to the at the...

A few days ago I lost my keys and used a newly cut spare to move the car out of he garage for a few minutes. Went to move it back in and it wouldn't start back up. Jumping it across the starter relay it fires right up. I get 12v to the ignition switch but nothing when turning the key to ign. I...

That is where it is currently at. 17' initial 34' Total at 2500rpm 50' Total at 2500rpm with Vac Advance hooked up.

So my numbers were actually off. I strobed it today and found the initial at 22' and the total Mech at 39' (17') I'll set the total to 34', attach the vac and see what happens. And sorry Vntned for the derail.

I think so too. It is driven 99% of the time under 3000rpms with kids in the car. Cruising around town it runs like a top. I imagine of I were measuring ET's and such it would be a different ballgame.

Runs pretty good. It is almost daily driven on the street and highway. I am looking to do the hei conversion on my Mopar distributor so I can really get dialed in though.

Out of the box my "ready to run" distributor had 20' mechanical all in by 1750rpm. Bending the spring tabs got me to about 2500 now. The problem is that vac advance is another 20 so having an intial around 22' will get you above 60'. For my engine, that was getting lower engine noise, so I...

I recently pulled one of those apart and adjusted the mechanical advance in it. Unfortunately, no vac adjustment. " Ready To Run " Distributor Dissasembly (Pic Heavy)

Unfortunately no.

I am still dialing it in so might give the screwdriver "cheat" a try and let you know. The tabs are fairly easy to bend. It's not a bad piece. And even though I am not fond of ChiCom parts I do think something like this can get some cars on the road and out of their garages. I do eventually want...

My Opinion: It is a moderate to well-built Chinese distributor. I bought it on Ebay ($45) while chasing ignition ghosts a few years ago (was not the fix). It works. I have put a lot of miles on it. Assumed I would put the MOPAR dizzy back in if it ever gave me problems. See a lot of Q's on...

An attempt to adjust the curve. Was coming in way too fast for my setup. After a test drive and timing it out I have gained 500rpm to mechanical advance.

There is also an access on the side where I assume you can bend the spring retainers to adjust the curve.

Here's a step by step disassembly of one of the "Ready to Run" HEI SB units. (Continuous Edit so please be patient) Remove HEI Cover and unscrew Vacuum advance. Remove ruber wiring grommet to gain access to vacuum advance lever Look inside (where green wire is in picture) and you...

Yep, that was it it. I had tested the grounding clips for contact but must have bumped it while under the car.

Bingo! The test ground I was using, two clips and a wire, wasn't making contact. Thanks man!

Hi Gang, hope all is well. I am absolutely stumped (as usual) with my fuel gauge. It is an Auto Meter #3315 with 73ohms (empty) and 8-12 ohms (Full). The gauge worked with my previous tank and sending unit. This is a new tank and sending unit. I pulled the tank today and tested the sending...

Thanks, I am using the early style regulator (single field).

Thanks for the thread. Before I start her up tomorrow can anyone verify this photo as correct?