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Personally, I feel that welding 'em in is easier and better to do. Drilling for the bolts, it's very difficult to get the holes so that the bolts fit in with no play at all. Even with the bolts ratcheted down tight, there is likely to be some movement because of the tremendous rotational...

Let me just add that it's a good idea to use some anti-seizing compound when you reinstall the bars into the sockets. The'll come out easier the next time. When I changed mine I had the same trouble as you in getting them out....they had been there for some 35 years. I used a flat jaw pipe...

I know you're thinking you just should of gone to ladder bars in the beginning, well that's what I did along with moving the leafs inboard, but why not just backhalve it? That's what I wish I had done for several reasons; 1) I think it's just as much work to relocate the springs inboard as it...

Mike, great video ! I could feel myself reaching for the shifter :lol: BTW, I never got an Email from you so I can log on to the Northeast site.

Mike, don't know what happened, must of got lost in space. Anyway, what I did was to move the leafs inboard ~3" so they're repositioned directly under the frame rails. Draw an imaginary line from eyebolt to eyebolt, then position the shackle 90 degrees to that line. That is the point which...

I PM'd Ya

Mike, looks like you did a nice job, but I couldn't help but notice the shackle angles. I did mine last year and I read somewhere that the angle of the shackle in relation to the leaf was critical to the leaf functioning correctly. I had to reposition the upper bolt on the shackle foward to...

When I found my '67 NB, the torsion bars were pushed-up through the floor boards. The torsion bar crossmember was shot dead. Called A.R.T. and they shipped me reproduction crossmembers and some front and rear framerail caps that I also needed. I will say this; their pieces are excellent fits...

Made them from 2"x3" square tubing that I bought from a local steel yard. Total cost was about $35, including a couple of 1/4" 6"x6" plates, which were cut up and welded fore to the torsion bar crossmembers and aft to the frame rails. It took about 3 hours including 2 coats of POR15.

S+W also has the swing-out side bar brackets, if that interests you. Even if you're building a dedicated drag car, they make working on the interior much easier. Don't forget to order some corner gussets for the install.