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I had the same problem with our 50 Chrysler. Turned out to be the starter solenoid mounted on the stater. The large steel electro-magnetic plunger would hang up from a weak magnetic field after the solenoid was turned off (magnetic sticking). Solved it by placing a THIN piece of rubber on the...

When you crank the engine it automatically bypasses the ballast resistor during "start" and the engine should fire but stop as soon as you let the key go back to "run" if the ballast is bad.

The ECU will work for both sixes and eights.

The headlight switch has a built in circuit breaker that triggers from to much current (heat). After it cools down it will come back on for awhile and then off-then on. You get the picture. If it is being triggered (with the new switch still) then some thing is wrong with your headlights and/or...

And did you replace the alternator with one of the same size (current wise) or did you go bigger (more current)? If you went bigger that can be a problem as the old wire harness is not up to the task of the bigger current flow. If I remember your 66 should be about 25-30 amps.

A dead short will cause a fuse to blow-NOW. A almost-but-not-quite dead short will take time to blow. A worn through wire on the brake light may do it-or a wire rubbing the brake pedal arm. Or any wire any were in the car that has been pinched or worn. Or a new electrical option put in the car...

2 terminal is for points "dizzy" and a 4 terminal is for electronic "dizzys". What year is the 318?

Unplug the wires to the voltage regulator. Now check each wire (in the harness) to ground-use the ohms scale. You should get no readings. If ether wire shows a reading you will need to unplug the wires at the alt. and recheck the wires to ground. If you get no readings now you will need to check...

At best-maybe. But you may have a broken brush holder in the alt. that is grounding out one side of the field and causing your problem. You need to get your multi-meter out and take readings (ohm it out with the cars battery disconnected).

NO. Its a isolated field and not polarity sensitive.

Yes and what happened is with too much current being put out by the alt. and the over load caused by it and add in the corrosion at the fuse link plug you get heat. Too much heat and you get melting/burning. You may want to clean your bulk head connectors after you find out what is going on with...

If there is a short in the cars wires the alt. will not put out more voltage-its regulated at 14.5 volts or so. It should never go higher that that.

Check your alt. and its wiring. If the regulator is known good (my prime suspect really) it will have to be the alt. or the wires to it. You have the isolated field alt (1970 and up) and if one of the two field wires are shorted to ground you will have full output all the time from the alt. And...

Gauges draw power too. Trunk lights-under hood light-interior. Key hole light. Plus the factory amp gauge is not a high precision gauge or even linear.

First remove the switch from the dash-let it dangle in the air and see if it still blows fuses.

Did you get the correct cable? Is it the slant six Vs V8 thing?

Are your grounds hooked up? What is "low brake light"?

Ignition coil?

Do you have a automatic? Manual? It might just be the linkage is out of adjustment.

The burn out lights can be as simple as a bad battery connection, loose ground or positive cable can cause it.

Thats not a problem-14.5 is a good voltage. Thats good now-a 1/4 is a ok charge rate. OK you moved the burnt/melted wires around when you cleaned the bulkhead connector. This caused problems. What is "way over charging?" If nothing bad happened then why do you think it was over charging then?

Why do you think 14.5 volts is bad? That is normal voltage. A "12 volt" battery is really about 13.2 at full charge (unloaded). To charge a battery you have to have higher voltage otherwise the electrons will not flow to the battery.

It might be the coil as it fails when hot, and bypassing the resistor may give it the extra voltage to work again. Running electronics hot is not a good idea. Is it a dual ballast resistor or a single?

14.5 volts is not bad at low RPMs-but what is it at higher RPMs?

From a RF point-if it is not grounded it does (or can) radiate noise-even the radiator support. Thats is why you ground all bolt on panels-fenders/hood/trunk lid. I do agree that to the unibody shell does not really need a ground run from the battery to the tail lights but there are reports of...

I try to run a single point ground system myself but that is due to the ham radio set-up more than anything. I run a ground from the block to the fire wall and from the alt. case to the fender. And one from the battery to the other fender/radiator support. And one from the hood to the fire wall...

It will depend how the antenna is made. Some will stop when they are "up". Some will try to keep going on and on and on. To find a wire to hook to, take off the covers (1/4" nut driver) and look to the back of the off/on volume control. The wire on the back are the power wires-the one that come...

It might be the ash tray light.

-I under stand now-you pinched a wire under the dash when you tightened the two column clamp bolts that clamp it to the dash. Not in the column. Which 3 amp fuses? are they labeled?

What year are you? If you have the key in the column it could be the light for lighting up the key hole.