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No, you need to multiply the R12 capacity spec by 0.75 to get the correct amount of R134a. Nonstandard components can throw off this calculation—a new filter-dryer that's a different size than the original, for example, or a parallel-flow condenser instead of the original serpentine type so the...

Sure enough. But you're also the dude who can't seem to get his Duster's A/C to work well, and who didn't know about the A-body systems not using an EPR valve til '74. I'm not saying that to rub yer nose in it, just to point out that there's always more for all of us to learn, even on the...

When I was a kid, I used to summarily dismiss data of any quality if it didn't agree with my opinions and preconceptions. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Go here and pick out a true parallel-flow ("PF") condenser sized appropriately for the cutout in your radiator core support panel. Bigger is always better with a condenser; too big is not a thing. Probably. Take a look at this exhaustive set of tests: R12 and R134a (and a few others not worth...

A-bodies did not get EPR valves until 1974.

'73 still used a clutch-cycling switch like the '65-'72 systems, adjusted via the warm-cool slider on the dash, to regulate the evaporator temperature, and did not route defogger air through the evaporator to dehumidify it for much better defogger performance. For '74 the A-body got an EPR valve...

In perfect condition they were fairly good. Most of the basic hardware is just fine, and there are ways of greatly improving this system's performance without giant, expensive major surgery. The major bottleneck in this system's performance is insufficient condensing capacity, so the major...

Nope. The original part (№ 2121 254) was aluminum, right from start to end of production. An iron one on a Slant-6 is an aftermarket piece (many-to-most of the aftermarket ones were/are iron). Yours is aftermarket piece number at-least-one. That sucks (and it's also awesome). Also, someone...

Yup. The average age of a car on American roads in 1979 was 5.7 years, and that was up from 5.1 years in 1969. The 2013 figure was 11.4 years, just about double the 1979 figure. It hit 11.7 years in 2017, and the 2021 figure is 12.1 years. That's the average age. That means cars last longer now...

What year SC400, with how many miles on it?

That's one part of a 5-part article I wrote about cooling systems. There are links to previous/next chapter at the bottom of each part. Unfortunately, I cannot give permission, as I am not the copyright holder. I wrote that for Allpar before that site's founder sold the site to a media company I...

Read this.

I did it once on an A-body, with a same-year/same-motor parts car providing every single needed part, and (sometimes I'm a little slow to learn) I did it again on a Dodge pickup, that time with the factory's own kit for installing dаmn-near-original A/C in a truck not built with it—so there...

Here y'go.

You're right about that shroud in the pic being bent/tweaked. Also see here. Part numbers for '65 and '66 A-body V8: Shroud, upper: 2524 306 Shroud, lower: 2524 313

…says the guy who thinks he heard that there's a 200° maximum red limit line and stuff, and just took that as gospel truth. Of course I'm just joshin' ya; I fully realise that whatever opinion you want to make up and hold obviously beats the smelly ol' laws of physics and thermodyamics and...

I heard there's three million dollars in 1943 steel pennies hidden behind the ice cube trays in my freezer. Unfortunately for me, that story is just as much horsepuckey as the one you heard about the (imaginary) maximum or "red line" of 200°. A 170° thermstat is probably not optimal. You might...

The heater valve belongs there; not a good idea to try doing without. Current-production heater valve looks a little different but works the same, won't corrode/rust, and costs very little; that's this one.

Low-speed overheating is usually an airflow problem, not a waterflow problem; at higher speeds the car's forward motion pushes more air across the rad. If the rad were faulty you'd tend to see overheating at high speeds first, then at all speeds. Check to make sure your rad fan(s) operate...

Find and get a Stant SuperStat. They're the best ones on the market. Don't brutalize it with extra holes, etc.

Re-read that good article. :-)

160° is usually the wrong answer. The thermostat sets the minimum engine operating temperature, not its maximum. Start reading here (advance to each next chapter at the bottom of the page).

Read this.

Where in King County are you? Anywhere near North Seattle? What they describe is not impossible, but also not terribly likely. If it's what's going on, sanding it down and cramming in another gasket is not a good idea -- better to clean it very thoroughly with something that will eliminate...

Nope, that's not it -- not even a little bit. Especially not since the '69 FPC calls out the same part number for the A-body heater core with and without A/C. It's not that, either.

• It's highly compatible with existing systems • It's one of the two legitimate refrigerants for A/C systems in old cars (anything else in your system and any shop worth letting touch your car will order you off their premises) • It's safe • It's legal • It's cheap Those are five very...

Fun. How much difference in price? Wonder what they're calling the difference.

Not a whole lot; it's easy to do with just mouth suction. If you're using a spring-loaded heater valve you'll want to have a vacuum reservoir with check valve. The factory item is the black plastic thing in the pic here (you can see the original '71-up heater valve next to it -- looks a little...

Use this one for cars with 5/8" heater hose, or this one for cars with 1/2" heater hose. Most of the '70-'72 cars have 1/2" on the inlet side of the heater; pre-'70 and post-'72 cars mostly have 5/8".

Yep, same core with or without A/C.