Search results for query: *

That raises a question for me about how poorly the ungasketted welt-to-sheetmetal junction kept water out the trunk.

Look again: four for each "L" and four for each "V". And those aren't bodystyles, they're car lines. "L" means Dart—all of them, whether it be a Custom 4-door, a Swinger, or a Demon. "V" means Valiant—all of them, including Duster.

'72 was the first of many years for those side marker lights (№ 3587 436 amber; № 3587 440 red). The welt you describe is № 3679 121, shown only in the '72 factory parts cattledog, so it appears to have been a victim of penny-shaving.

$89.50/ea. PM sent (I don't like to get even close to posting in a commercial manner on the board; I don't feel like it's appropriate even if the admins are OK with it. I might be a little old-fashioned that way)

Too many variables for there to be a pat, one-size-fits-all answer. In the first place, "reasonable cost" is a moving target. I'll do my best: There are no longer any sealed beams worth buying anymore; they're all useless junk. The best H4 replaceable-bulb 7" round headlamps are specific...

Best pick depends on what you're trying to accomplish in terms of how well you want to be able to see at night (really important if you're going to be driving at night…less important if you're not); what your lighting budget is (you can bolt a pair of some of the world's best headlamps on this...

See this post for socket/housing refurb info.

That applies only to laminated glass. Only the windshield is laminated (sheet of butyrate plastic in between two sheets of glass); the rest of the glass on the car is tempered, so there's nothing to delaminate or discolour.

I have a set of '63-'66 A-body front door hinges custom-rebuilt with sintered bushings and grease zerks. Send me a PM if interested.

That's not going to do. You need a pressure-vacuum cap. The rubber seal is to prevent liquid gasoline sloshing out (and water drizzling in). It does not substitute for the controlled in-and-out venting provided by a pressure-vacuum cap. Read up on it here.

I like the '75-'76 Unleaded filler tubes; they're much better at not puking gasoline on the paint once the tank's full. Minor adaptation required.

See here.

Exactly what it sounds like: a steel reinforcement built into the door so you're less likely to be hurt as badly if someone or something hits you in the door. Giant report on it is here; read pp. 57-59 for the good stuff.

Any '68-'76 door from your same body style—square-body 2-door hardtop Dart or Valiant—will bolt right on. '73-up doors have side-impact guard beams built in, and no vent wing windows. '67 doors won't work because the door latch is different.

pishta, I'm sure I don't know. :-(

Off the top of my head, not counting minor/trivial stuff like different badges and trim (but VDart, I sure hope you kept the "shark fin" ornaments off the tops of the fenders on that red '60!), substantially different parts comparing a '60 vs a '62 Valiant include: K-frame Engine mounts (all...

The deeper you dig into a '60-'61 Vlaiant/Lancer, the more differences you find vs. '62+. Hemi Anderson put it well, I think: "The first two years of Valiant/Lancer were really 1950s cars." He's right.

The guy in Nevada moved elsewhere; see last post in this thread.

Nice work! Yup, the higher the better.

Big +1 on that. And don't use those fold-and-crunch type (Scotchlock) wire taps, either. I like Posi-Taps. Also, another reason to use an LED type unit is that an incandescent bulb will increase the current load on the wiring upstream of the brake light switch by about 50%. You probably won't...

Good thinking; it's not. Yup! The cheap and nasty retrofit units that flooded the market in the '80s had so-called "logic modules" that were supposed to allow for E-Z hookup all at the back of the car. Those modules failed quicklike. Running a wire to the stop light switch is the right way...

Yes, that's what the car's turn signals are for. A flashing (blinking, "pulsing", strobing) central brake light doesn't indicate turning or anything else, it just worsens the speed and accuracy of the reaction of the driver behind you when you step on the brake. That's the opposite of what you...

Whether new or used, buy a good one, not cheap junk, and hook it up right so it doesn't flash with the turn signals (or any other time -- 3rd brake light flasher/blinker/pulse devices are available but extremely unwise to install). Be real careful if you buy used; the central brake light has to...

Read that thread I linked earlier in this one.

Yes, all of the aftermarket lamps are knockoff junk from China. You're asking whether Golden Retriever shìt is less stinky than German Shepherd shìt. The difficulty is, what we feel like we're seeing isn't what we're actually seeing. The human visual system is a lousy judge of how well it's...

All of the aftermarket lamps (such as those ones from 1A Auto), whether they're original-looking or restyled, are trash. The low price is attractive, but the quality, performance, and durability are all substantially and dangerously inferior to the genuine items. There is no optical...

Mopar Tim's got it right. when "plastic" (polycarbonate) headlamp lenses are yellowed or clouded or fogged, it's time to replace the lamps with new original-equipment ones. There are various polishing/restoration kits and techniques on the market, none of which will do anything but postpone your...

If I were you I'd go through the one-time hassle of enlarging the door holes (per this thread) to accept the '66-up lock cylinders, which are a great deal easier and less expensive to buy and rekey.

But if you swap the complete door (including interior trim/handles, etc) it works fine because the hardware (hinges, latch, etc.) is all the same.

Yup, it's an exact match, and the '73-up doors contain a side-impact guard beam that makes you less likely to get hurt or dead in a T-bone crash.