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Awcrud, it was supposed to be clickable for larger. Here y'go. Not one of one, but one of extremely few.

That '70-'72 choke thermostat's pushrod was meant to hook to a Holley 1920 or Carter BBS (final bend at the carb end of the choke pushrod is to make it point forward). The Holley 1945 carb on your engine requires a choke pushrod with its final/uppermost bend making it point rearward. Bends below...

Well, yeah, fair. My point is that the current-production pumps for Slant-6s are improperly-built garbage. This would be a better pick. Budgets are budgets, and dollars that don't exist don't exist, but "cheapy" and "fuel delivery system" can easily add up to "suddenly hideously expensive".

Well…yeah, you could shove a cork in the tailpipe and kindasorta stop the exhaust smoke, or you could fix the actual problem: it's time for a fuel pump built to correct specifications.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post.

One doesn't follow from the other. You can keep or delete the EGR as you wish, regardless of your evap setup (vapor can/purge valve/etc).

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Outta stock, sorry.

7081. It's stamped there on the carb below 3870902.

I wouldn't bet on that.

Check your valve adjustment. If they're too tight, you can get a rough idle when the engine warms up. Beyond that, and making sure you don't have any funky (cracked/spongy/holed/etc) vacuum hoses, you have the correct PCV valve, etc, tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post, and...

Go read the article I linked for you to learn why your idea is not a good one.

That hose wants to see manifold vacuum. So you can tee it into the choke pull-off hose, or you can connect it to the vacuum tap on the rearmost intake manifold runner. Just as well; do like this and you'll wind up better off—the stock '74 setup using the throttle plate as a halfassed purge...

Same casting used for carbs with/without external bowl vent, with/without cold idle secondary enrichment, and with/without other features. Don't worry about it. Hook up the hoses that your car has to the correct ports on the new carb, and cap the unused ports. Easy.

There's not going to be a judge with a clipboard subtracting points because your car doesn't have a correctly-stamped carburetor. If it's a choice between those two carbs, here's 24 votes (both hands, both feet, all ten fingers, and all ten toes) for using the NOS Dodge van item, which will run...

Good. There's no rule that they have to be exactly, precisely the same—and there are good reasons why they might not be—but if they're more than a little different, something's wrong.

Many, many 225s have been easily made to run very well with 273-313-318 carburetors. Yes, slightly, and some other differences—in 1977 to 1983, when the American auto industry wasn't interested in doing any better than a halfassed, barely-half-funded job of cleaning up exhaust emissions, so...

You're setting yourself up for aggravation if you use a '70-'72 exhaust manifold. Its open-stove choke setup is a pain even with factory parts (leak-prone gasket no longer available; homemade solutions leak worse). That's on top of the other issues with old exhaust manifolds (warp, crack, busted...

It's a bolt from '60 until sometime around '72 or '73, then it's a stud from then on up, p/n 152 568, as offered here. If I recall correctly, the stud is larger diameter and thread than the bolt; on occasion when using later exhaust manifold with earlier intake I had to overbore that bolt hole...

Pray hard and drink hard and cuss hard.

Cool jibe, bro, but I've seen \6 oil pressure senders (for one example) leak under pressure in such a manner that there's little or no evidence. You lose your oil on the road, but not on the driveway or garage floor. There are a lot of things to like about the Slant-Six engine; there are a lot...

Find tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. As soon as you can, get the three books listed in this thread.

All those parts have grown difficult to get hold of. See this thread for kickdown options.

Most or all of the D/W trucks prior to '70 or so used a carb throttle lever configuration different to the passenger car arrangement. What to do depends on how desperate you are, how important originality is, and how many parts aside from the carburetor you're willing to replace with different ones.

Both of them benefitted from the plenum/runner rework.

That dual-plane + dual-carb intake is a South African item. So are these ones—the compound-plenum 4bbl was (??used, tested??) on some Valiants hot-rodded for police service there, and the long dual-2bbl setup was part of a performance pak I don't recall the name of. A Valiant freak down there...

Yup. It'll sit there permanently closed (unless it's leaky).

For mixture distribution, driveability, and fuel economy, the '78-'81ish 2-piece welded aluminum intakes are the best; they underwent extensive scrutiny at the design phase to eliminate flow dead-zones and optimise the mixture distro to all cylinders, using computerised tools that weren't...

No. Offhand I can think of about seven year-split internal differences, and there are probably more not occurring to me right now.