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When taking my 68 grill out I found it best to remove the entire header panel. I used a small wire brush in a dremel to clean the threads of the studs before adding some penetrating oil. I still had a couple that broke before turning loose. You can't be to careful when working on these grills.

The rustout in those photos was caused by a cheap replacement vinyl top that was poorly preped and installed. The original tops dont have that particular kind of backing and the vinyl was heavier and much better quality. What you have there is a combination of California sun drying/ cracking a...

I thought the 67 barracuda grills were all metal? I have 68s so they are the plastic finned inserts. They can be pretty fragile from age. The urethane may make the plastic more resistant to breaking. Possibly glass bead them lightly and repaint since most weren't chromed anyway. As for the...

Very cool, nice work.

Do you have the trim? If so is it in good shape?

You should probably need to know it is the 68 super stock style to order the correct scoop.

Condition of the top is everything. If it has been replaced or if original makes a big difference also due to the backing material. Factory tops have a woven backing that lends itself better to being carefully lifted and glued back down. Heat and going very slow with a single edged razor blade...

The first photo is a clip on my lower cowl. The screw is mostly rusted away on this one but the clip is intact and still in position. I believe these to be original since the paint and sealant seemed untouched. The second photo is a clip that was used on the side post and across the top. They...

I have to suspect before the black paint was put down on the top of the dash frame and windshield opening the holes for the screws got filled. I would drill the holes in the locations shown in the chart posted above for some new philips screws. As far as the height of the holes it is more...

My 68 was loaded down with the sealant also. I had cleaned most of it off when that photo was taken. The moulding clips were mostly rusted away or in bad shape. Generally a sticky mess.

Here you can see what's left of the clips and phillips screws on this 68.

Their should be 9 clips across the bottom attached with Phillips head screws. They start a bit over 3" outboard from the notch you mentioned. Pretty much lined up where the flange to bolt the dash frame begins.

It wouldn't hurt to pull them out and seal them up. The top vinyl will lay in a bit flatter also. It what I would do. Or you could just glue the vinyl down right over them.

Trim holes are different between all 3 years. 67-69

Saw the photo on line a couple years ago myself. Just my stupid humor.

Did you get to hear it run first? Sometimes the brakes will stick if she's been sitting awhile. Can't wait to see it washed up.

Certicard

Its not so much how the paint is put on sprayed, roller, brush or mop. Most sand and buff paint before calling it done these days anyhow. Some paints are gummy and don't sand or buff well. Others dry harder and do shine polish up nice. Any paint can be applied. But.... If I was going to roller...

It was done to lighten the doors by making the steel thinner. Along with the acid treatment the doors got thinner glass and the regulator winders removed. A simple seatbelt was attached and used to pull the window up. It would snap to the bottom of door while in the up position.

I have met two guys who sent out some doors and bumpers to be chemically milled. One of the fellas had a factory Hemi dart and the other a clone barracuda project. I never got to see the parts first hand only their description of what they got back from the dip tank. Basically the parts...

I have the best luck getting the grill surrounds out by removing the header panel and grills as an assembly. Clean and soak the studs before putting a socket to them as they are easy to destroy. Saves you from having to replace/ repair them. They take a 11/32 socket.

This^^^^^ do not use urethane windshield sealant. Butyl is used with a rubber gasket.

I would. As Pauly says it would take alot to write out a step by step here. I would put some extra effort into ensuring the profile of the hood doesn't change thru the bonding process. Something along the lines of two 2x4s cut to the shape of the hood. You could set the hood upside down on...

A bolt on scoop would be much easier. By the way those little "L" brackets won't hold the scoop on for a single pass down the track.

It can be done with some careful planning/ cutting and patience. The difficulties I see joining the two parts you have is how thin the vfn hoods are. I would probably make a pattern made of poster board that sets nice on top of the scoop flange. Use it to mark and cut the hole in the hood...

Oops, its probably painted by now.

Heat the back side with a torch and pry it off with a scraper. Go easy with the heat or you can warp the metal. It won't take much. A heat gun will work a bit safer but take longer.

The other part is the bottom half of a dryer mounting bracket for air-conditioning.

Steel hoods only. The steel hoods use sheet metal screws to hold the bezels or disc to your hood. Fiberglass hoods use rivits with a backup washer and sandwich the disc and fiberglass. Screws generally just fracture the glass rather than bite in like they would on sheet metal. The...

Its been a few years but he may still have them. I don't really see Bob very often. The car was taken apart and stuffed with loose parts when I got it. Not even enough to put it together. Parts had been lost and weren't with the car. Many parts were ruined from being left in the rain for...