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PS: it makes a big difference how much the lower poles lean in in terms of usable space. Like the one in your first pic, the clearspan poles are pretty much upright for the first 5 feet or so.

I have two soft buildings like that. There is a wide range of building durability depending on how much you pay. The ones that I got have large diameter thick poles, and thick covers. One is twelve years old and took a hit from a BIG fir branch last year and put a rip in the cover. I got a...

if you use compressed air be sure to regulate the pressure! leaf blower seems the better bet for air. I use an old soft clean bath towel.

OUTSIDE!!! As a matter of fact - don't build the shed on to your building. Buy a cheap prefab shed building and put it even a foot from the shop and you will never regret it. and you can store parts in the rest of the shed - you can NEVER have enough parts storage to get them out of your shop.

One thing is for sure, pulling the roof and replacing the trusses and metal would be waaaay easier, especially if you get trusses from a truss company that can set them with a crane. You could even let the trusses run past the wall and produce an overhang that would keep a lot of the moisture...

I probably leave it too long - every 6 months. Mine is in a shed built on to the outside of the shop with a s#%tload of insulation in the wall. I got tired of banging my head on the hood every time the damned thing went off.

You will be a LOT better off than the dude in the video in that I presume that you will place the lift so that the vehicle is perpendicular (rather than in line) with the trusses, so that you will be placing the vehicle at the high part of the scissor trusses. When he does all this work the...

If you have the room to install a properly designed scissor truss in place next to the original trusses and then sister the two together (screw them together all up and down the scissor truss), then you should be able to cut away the offending parts of the original truss. Be sure that the added...

Can you post a close up picture of the area under your gutters, against the wall (from the outside)?

CDF244 and George Jets - THANKS!!! I think you just saved me a lots of time....

I'm getting ready to insulate my shop roof (which has soffit vents and a ridge vent) can you post something that would help me understand these "channels"???

I just can't picture this. What do you plan to do in your garage in the middle of winter (only time it freezes in KY). I live in Washington State (think same latitude as Maine). When you pour the floor, pour an apron at least far enough so there is no joint under the door seal by 6 inches and...

How about sloping the floor to drain out the door...

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You know, I live in soggy Washington State. My compressor and blast cabinet are in an uninsulated wood shed that is a foot off the ground. Its been that way for 12 years and I have never had this problem. Is it the type of blast material? the configuration of the cabinet (a cheap one from...

Build a shed 3 feet from the garage for the compressor and anything like a blast cabinet. You can get it wired and plump the air lines at the same time you build the main garage. It will be the end of compressor noise (including getting startled when the thing comes on unexpectedly). Having...

my best advice is that one of the worst things that happen in a garage is that they become damned near unusable if you don't have somewhere else to store what you aren't working on now. I have found that the easy way to do that is that it doesn't cost that much to raise the roof higher and...

By the way another idea that I stole from another shop - see the fluorescent light boxes on the side walls (pics with the car in them)? There are actually 2 sets of 2 (you can't see the lower ones). That way you have light when you raise the car and the body blocks the overhead lights...

Here are pictures of my hoist. I did my time installing Torqueflites and 8 3/4 chunks in a car on 4 jackstands in the gravel on my back... with the item on my chest. This is the best and most safety conscious tool that I ever bought for working on a car!. You can see the beam across the two...

This sounds like operator error to me...

regarding the lift failure in post#13 (how appropriate): I would avoid this lift design. all the pressure works to pull the top of the lift posts toward the middle. If you look at some of the other lift pictures there is a design with a piece that bridges the tops of the posts. That way all...

The bottom one is an oyster knife for opening shells

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By gawd but a clean organized shop makes a huge difference!!! Next step???

First suggestion - build a shed OUTSIDE of your shop but butted up against it (or at least withing a foot). Insulate the hell out of the shed on the wall facing the shop and put some rigid foam insulation in the shop where the shed is. Put your compressor in the shed and run air lines into...

More tool boxes! The more space where you can sort stuff into categories, the better. Once you get it sorted out always put stuff back in the same place, after awhile you'll always know where to find stuff.

for freshly blasted intake manifolds I use those giant Zip Loc bags - just the right size and you can get most of the air out As the Travelling Wilburys sang - "Keep it in a cool, dry place!". You gotta hear this!

There's R value in the CDX and a great barrier for air infiltration too but don't know what it is

I agree !!! I sheathed the inside of part of my garage with CDX and it worked great. I just painted over it with exterior house paint. Whatever I want to put on the wall, I can put it anywhere I want, for really heavy stuff I just look for the nail heads. and it really stiffens the whole...