Search results for query: *

I have great luck with Real Gasket thermostat gaskets... The valve cover gaskets, not so much. I also found that thermostat housings (Dorman?) from NAPA come in Cast iron instead of aluminum much less likely to warp and a brand new machined surface - worth the cost.

I did something similar to TrailBeast and modified a later model plastic glove box.

Having done this a few times, getting the clutch to water pump bolts started was a struggle! But the resulting spacing once installed was perfect. Don't forget the brass sleeve that centers the water pump nub in the clutch hole.

Yep, been there, done that. I ended turning my cabin side bracket right to left 180 degrees and adding another 90 degree piece, that way I could drill holes through the glove box... I'd love it if we could get a couple of their tech guys to travel around and look at what folks have done to...

you can look at my thread elsewhere here, But I ended changing the crank pulley and moving my whole PS pump and, AND the whole alternator and brackets 1/2 forward and finding a factory water pump pulley to move that groove 1/2 inch forward so that I could line everything up and use 2 belts on...

Welcome to the wild world of Classic Auto Air!!!! I just hope that a few years down the line (of trouble free cool air) we will both be able to think this was a good investment overall.

subscribed...

Please let us know how the belt set up works once it's running!!! I have the one that runs the alternator and compressor on a single belt. Squealed like hell. Finally got it so that I could use a double belt on the alternator and compressor like the factory set up and it cured the problem, but...

I think you might be avoiding the headaches that a bunch of us had with the set up that they offer that has AC, Alt and crank on one belt (uses factory AC crank pulley). Not enough belt wrap on the AC pulley and boy does that squeal!!! I fixed it to use 2 belts but boy was it a hassle.

Use Thread Sealant instead of RTV. It's made for wet holes and never completely hardens to keep it sealed.,, White stuff in a tube or pot. I like the chop stick routine!

Pictures Please!!!

I would suggest that you look at what shows up first. The kit that I got for my 70 Dart has you reconfigure the stock sliders so that they actuate potentiometers (sp?) that are then on the control mechanism, this goes by wire to and electronic control box. I mounted mine in a modified factory...

If you find a way to successfully route the hose to the vent to the left of the driver let us know. Several of us have been trying to figure this out for a couple years. Above the column there are issues with the moving parts of the wiper system. Did you buy the system that provides a crank...

been using aluminum radiators in front of my small blocks for over 10 years. Always painted the fins and what ever else shows through the grille black. Always had them cool better than the 3 core AC/340 stock radiators. Never had a cooling issue with them even with trans coolers and AC...

Idler pulley under the compressor?

for 1970 small blocks there are an entirely different set of pulleys and belt pairings for AC cars and non-AC cars. In that system the AC and alternator run on a double belt. Did you car actually come with AC and no power steering - I don't think I have ever seen one like that before.

the knob style in my 70 Dart was no issue

from all the input on this thread it seems that you might be fine with one belt. The issue seems to arise when the compressor and alternator are on the same belt...

Where did that come from???

does your application run anything besides the compressor with that belt?

I think that the one that I used probably came off a loaded big block c body car considering what the guys do that collected that stash of pulleys...

I still can't find them anywhere. The real Mopar ones don't even need the special clamp because the outside black layer is rubber and the red/orange silicone interior never touches the clamp. I can't find these on Ehrenberg's site, but he does have high quality rubber versions. Still hoping...

If you go onto Mancini Racing's web site and search for bypass hose, you get a picture of a Chrysler heavy duty silicone bypass hose easily identified because it is red orange on the inside. They even use the Chrysler part number as the Mancini part number. They sell them for $33 so I ordered...

yep, but you know somebody out there on FABO has 20 of them in a box on their shelf - I posted a want ad here too...

Yep, all say not available at this time...

Everyone seems to be out of the cop car silicone bypass hoses for a LA smallblock. Does anyone know of a current source?

sorry, no idea - the shop where we build race cars has bins and nobody ever throws a pulley away, so when you need something you just start digging through the bins. There were several just like this so it must be a common application. most of the race cars are 440s so that might be the source.

That has not been my experience. I have worked on two other small block A-bodies with persistent belt squeal issues on factory belt set ups and was able to solve them with Quanta belts. I have them on all 3 of my a-bodies and drive them all quite a bit.

To follow up on belts - I have never had much luck with the common belts with all the little divots cut in them. I found a source for original factory type belts from Quanta (same people that make all our repop gas tanks) in Rising Sun Maryland. They have factory style solid belts for all of...

I know the Classic kit for using non-AC crank pulley and no power steering is a completely different deal and comes with a different pairing of belts and an idler pulley is part of the kit. But I think it still only uses 1 belt on the compressor.