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I am not the kind of person to ever turn my domes on when I am driving. Many years in the military honed my black-out driving skills (driving with no lights at all), so any kind of light on in the interior screws me all to hell.:banghead: I even keep my gauge lights turned down.:thumleft: The...

Yeah, there is a lot of research needed for proper LED applications. I am going to put it in tonight (sans headliner) just to get some light in the car.

Since my dome light was MIA on my car (no headliner when I bought it) I decided to continue my LED theme, while keeping a fixture that looks the part in the vehicle. I just got one of these 5" diameter chrome bezel lights and holy crap is it bright. It's not in the car yet, but I bench tested...

..need to check in to that, thanks.

Yes there is some definite trial and error when it comes to LEDs, especially with direct replacements. Things like lens color, reflector, lamp housing size, all play a part. I learned through plenty of trial and error what works and what does not. (In some cases, nothing). The Dart was very...

There are some electronic sequencers and diagrams floating around the net. Should be able to get you started. I put all LEDs in my Dart on the exterior, and will do the interior when I start the rework there. They look good, and are VERY bright.

For 130 amps I would recommend at least a 6awg, and preferably a 4awg. Remember there are a lot of things that effect how efficient your power transfer is. Length and quality of cable can reduce efficiency, as can the quality of the terminations. Also, you want to size your cable so that you...

They make weather proof connectors, which is what I would use.....I was just too lazy to find the exact connector on their site.

Well, I was looking at the Tyco CPC (cannon plug). http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/feat/en/c/10574?BML=10576,10307 I work alot with these type of plugs at work so it's nothing for me to wire one in to the car. I'd like to relocate it away from the engine if possible.

After stripping out a large amount of the wiring from under the hood of my '75...I realized there are a lot of empty slots in the factory firewall bulkhead connector. I also plan to run all aftermarket gauges, so the under dash wiring will get a lot rework also. This will be the perfect time to...

Here you go...right from the service manual. V & L = Valiant and Dart

I will post tomorrow after I look the info up.

What I find funny is that I had mega engine noise in my aftermarket stereo on my 1992 Olds Cutlass Coupe, but zero when I installed my new system in my Dart...go figure...LOL. CD player 2 - Pioneer 6x9s 1 - JL 10W3V2 subwoofer 1 - Kenwood 1200w 5 channel amp

I have found the power line filter to be the best way to go, when it's needed.

I'm not running any capacitors on the stereo, it's not that big of a system. The troubleshooting has been done both with the stereo on, and with it completely unplugged. No change between the two states. I am using all 1/0 cable for the battery cables and 4awg cable for the charging wire...

Damn...battery didn't fix the problem. NOW what? I had thought about using a 1 wire Powermaster 140amp unit, but they charge at 14-14.5v...If that is the case, what is wrong with using a 13.6 constant Mopar regulator?

Yes, it would appear to be a faulty battery. I took the Optima back where I bought it to test. It failed almost right away. It has ok initial voltage, but tanks quickly under load. I don't have a new battery for it since they were out of Red Tops. I am going by their other location tomorrow to...

I have been thinking of going to a 1 wire alternator (Powermaster 140) also, as I think my 100amp might not be enough. I have added 20amp cooling fans and a 1200w amp and subwoofer. A one wire is OK to use, I would just be sure to use a good wire to get back to the battery. 4awg welding cable...

bvt: Actually I did the same thing a few years ago when I upgraded to my FBO ignition. The testing I did was with the radio/amp off, no power draw aside from that for the memory. A few people that I have talked to today have indicated the battery as a possibility. It is a Red Top Optima, but...

The Dart has mysteriously started charging at 14v at idle and will climb to 16v when I rev the motor up to even just 1500rpms. I guessed it was a voltage regulator. I had two more spares, and they did the same thing. Just to make sure, I went out and bought yet another one, and it did the same...

OK, I'm not sure if this is the same problem....but here is what happened to me. Remember that the voltage regulator draws its sense voltage from a circuit that has numerous other devices on it (high load circuit). This causes the circuit to appear to have a lower voltage than the car actual...

I also use a late model starter..about half the size and half the weight of the factory unit.

..and as a side note: Neither (-) battery cable is sufficient in size. Remember that all the electrical current your car is using needs to be able to get back to the battery with as little resistance as possible. I use 1/0 cables to the battery to make sure I have enough capacity.

I just went ahead and completely abandoned the whole Ampmeter circuit. I ran a 4awg wire from the alternator (100amp) to buss bar (or battery, if yours is still under the hood). I completely removed all the ampmeter wiring that went through the bulkhead connector.

On the 71? On my '75 the Voltage regulator is on the Right inner fender, and the ignition box is on the left innner fender just forward of the master cylinder. Your's might be different though, since 71s didn't have the pollution junk that mine had.

Buss makes a nice 8 fuse ATC fuse block that is readily available at O'Reillys and I think Autozone. I'm not sure that would be enough for your purposes though. The mounting stud is a bit on the small side too, so I wouldn't try to run your ignition off it, but it would work great for accessory...

Never really used an aftermarket ignition before my Dart. At first I had a stock distributor, light pickup spring, Mopar Orange Box & Blaster coil, with Accel custom cut wires (everything new). I had constant ignition issues (wandering idle, stumble under acceleration). I ordered the FBO...

To add to Chief's post. I made the mistake of upgrading the alternator in my car to that 100amp model and had not yet updated the wiring. I promptly burned up the amp guage the first time I started the car due to the increase current. I now have the gauge bypassed completely with the new wiring.

You want the quick & dirty way to install the relay? Just mount it right next to your voltage regulator, and use the old sense wire as the relay feed, and ground it right there at the mounting screw. This will activate the relay, and you won't need to run any extra wires. Then just pass you...

Just rewire the whole car!!:toothy10: That's basicly what I ended up doing, but I have zero power problems now. - Battery in trunk grounded locally by 1/0 welding cable. - 1/0 cable to buss bar mounted on inner fender. - 8awg wire through fire wall (isolated by 60amp maxi fuse) feeds full time...