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you can pick up a little hand pump at harbor freight for under $50

Take lots of pics before and while disassembling to help get hoses put back where they belong. I just had the evap cleaned and pressure tested. I did as Dartman said and just tested the actuators and reused them as all were in good shape

I went Non Ac to Ac The Black outline it the fan motor hole for the ac box so you will have to make an adapter plate. The heater core comes out in the same place. You will have to plug the two holes top right where the ac lines come out

It should still provide decent cooling if it is not clogged up. Are you going off of the stock gauge or ? to determine how hot it is running. Checking the basics is a good start. Is it timed correctly and carb tuned correctly ? is there a good working thermostat in it? I will agree having a...

I have a good one out of my 68 if it will work for you.

Just counted mine. there are 11

I will have to retract that offer. After cleaning the dust off of it and giving it a good once over I found it is cracked where the steel ring for the blower motor attaches. Sorry about that.

If you don't want to screw with the repair at all I have that half of the heater box from my 68 still in great condition.

Fill it and sand it to shape. Jb weld will hold up well in that repair I have used it in the past on case repairs for portable wire feeders that get abused daily on construction sites and it survives.

I switched mine from non ac to ac . I have a piece of the ac firewall that I had used as a template to get the holes in the correct position. A few other members have used it also. If you would pay the shipping charges I would be happy to send it to you. Just ask that you return it when you are...

Neal you are correct. Without the valve it will be just like every other older mopar with just heat

This biggest issue you will have in tearing out the ac box for the non is the hole for the blower motor. the ac one has a larger hole so you will need to make a plate to cover it. You will also have a couple other extra holes in the fire wall to plug.

That is a lot of work but it is looking good

Here are some pictures I took of mine before taking it apart. I have it sitting on the bench at work still so I should be able to get them all to you today sometime. Dam photobucket being a pain. If you click on the pic it will take you to my photobucket page and you can scroll through them

The following pic will help you see what you are up against. The hole for the ac fan motor is much larger than the heat only boxes. You would have to make an adapter to cover the hole The black outline is the size of the AC firewall

I believe it is challengergary

RedFish is probably correct on the performance issue but I have never been a fan of how the aftermarket ac systems look. If you decide to go the factory route I have a template you can use to mark out all the correct holes. It is just a piece of firewall from an ac car but lays exactly over...

I don't recognize it as an ac one but I do believe I still have a good non ac one I took out of mine. If you need it I will dig it Out for you

How different are the firewalls between 69 and 72? Converting my 68 to factory air was not hat difficult. I have a piece of firewall from a 69 a.c car that I layer over the existing one and marked the location of the holes. Fairly straight forward

Here are some pics I took of mine before taking it apart to restore it. Not sure if 69 is much different if any from 70

It goes on the flange of the heater core nearest the flapper door. It helps seal the flapper door.

I had to tug on mine pretty good to get it out. There was some corrosion on it that was holding it up. I used some HVAC coil cleaner on mine prior to removal. It seemed to help loosen it from the corrosion a bit.

My best guess is that there had been A previous hole in the radiator sealed by stop leak and when it was flushed it opened it back up. All in all you Can still look at this as a victory as it wasn't anything you caused

overlay on my 68 showing what had to be modified for the ac box to mount. In this picture i already had the other needed holes drilled. It may be a little different on the later model abodies, not sure.

The mounting hole is smaller for the non ac heater box. It would require modifying the firewall. Example below as I did just the opposite with mine. You can see where I have it drawn out to cut for the ac.

Side by side comparison. My car was non Ac to start and i converted it to factory Ac.

This should give you an idea of the difference. The sharpie marked circle is where I marked the non ac firewall to be cut when I converted my car to a factory ac car. The four smaller holes around the hole for the blower motor are where the non ac box mounts . As you can see with an ac car that...

Kirby. I have the original one out of my 68 but I could not say if it is compatible or not with your car. Maybe someone user on here would know If it would work we could work something out I a sure

Here is an unbroken one with the hole in the correct place.

I have a pic of that area, just need to figure out how the heck to get it off my phone