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1st, i go buy a box of those screws ( i always seem to strip a few). second, i know the thread pitch doesnt match, but i drill and tap for 1/4-20 threads (its a close match) in the holes of the wheels. i only put 5 on each side, and i line them up with the lug pattern. then, mount the tires up...

well, its nice to see im not the only one that has used krylon for a car :salut: . i had it on my daily driver omni for 8 years. you remember that car norm, you saw me pulling in your driveway a mile a way :mrgreen: --chad

you broke the ends off the bars? never seen that happen unless they were severly rusted or had stress risers in them. anyways, like adam said, choose a bar for your application. i always ran /6 bars in mine. but i stepped up to big bars in my handleing car. never had problems with either one...

the proper socket, at least a 1/2" breaker bar (most sockets are set up for a 3/4" socket though--can get an adapter as i did), and a solid length of pipe--min. 3 ft long. leave the arms in the car and go to town. they are tough turning the whole way out. i install the new ones with a bit of...

they way i like to do them is support the suspension on jackstands or blocks under the tires-- (2 under the rear shock plates, and 2 under each front control arms). if you are extravegant, a drive on lift (alignment rack) is the best way. supporting the car on the suspension/tires like it is on...

actually john, even on an a-body, they do go through the floor when the tubing is stood on end like in the pics i posted. you only see about an inch of it though in the rear footwell, as opposed to the whole 3" that you see in that b-body. however, like you pointed out, you can turn the tubing...

the bigblock dart way is good, but this is the best way to do it IMO. slot the floor and allow the connectors to come through the floor and weld the floor to them too as well as to the front and rear subframes. this is just commenly available 2"x3" x .125" thick rectangular tubing. these pics...

wow---i guess they went up some. i think they were 425.00 when i bought them. i could go way lower on mine now without bottoming the suspension. i could easily go another 1.5-2" but the bottom of the bellhousing would hit. but the real question here was how to lower without messing with the...

i bought those spindles---very pricey, but they do the job without killing the geometry. this is with a 400" big block, turbo setup and 318 non a/c torsion bars, i could go lower still w/o problems, but the rim/flange on the safety bell housing is only 2.5" off the ground now --chad