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Ok I give. Good night and good luck.

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It stays in high gear till everything comes to a stop. Then you put it in low and either stage the car or drive away.

As I said a shift kit has the ability to hold the gear. High gear is the only option that protects the overrunning clutch. I don't know how to explain it to you, you just don't seem to understand.

I guess I should clarify a little. If you have a stone stock Mopar then you don't need to worry about any of this. Torqueflites were made to handle less than 400hp motors and when you stray from stock thats when you run into problems. Higher HP car have the ability to break the over running...

This is bad info. If you have a 727 with a stock over running clutch assembly it will go boom one day.

Yes, you can do that but you run the risk of the tires going fast than the crank speed and thats what breaks them. If I had a fully auto car that didn't have manual operation I would do my burnouts dry.

And the 904/998/999 don't have this problem. If you have a 400hp small block then you should try a 904, they rob a lot less power.

Everyone should care about their 727 blowing up. The burnouts in question are when you hold still in the burnout box and do a burnout especially with a line lock. It allows the wheel speed to exceed engine speed and the overrunning clutch is what picks up a major amount of RPM and the trans goes...

I have been racing torqueflites for 30 years and I had lots of trans problems early on. I eventually went to Protrans and had them do the rebuild. They gave me instructions on how to make it live. NEVER do a burnout in low or second. Don't even start there. Of course if its a stock 330 hp car...

904s kick ***. Ive used them for years. I even put one in my stock Road Runner behind the big block (with a JW adapter bell housing).

Thanks Cass. BTW it was nice to meet you at the Spring Fling.

Boy. Clear as mud. I guess there is only one way to find out for sure. lol.

When do I start? I'd love to work in your shop! I am afraid your geographically challenged!

Undo both motor mounts, remove the centerlink and starter. Then jack the motor up till the trans hits the floor. Both headers come out the bottom like hot butter. Oh and remove the oil filter. Done it a million times in the driveway. Takes about 1 hour to get those babies out!

Hi Fig I am about 20 minutes from you in Santa Ana. I need small bolt backing plates and drums for a A body 8 3/4. Is that what you have?

See I have this 71 Dart and its getting a 440 whether it likes it or not. I also have this 8 3/4 that I plan to put in with it. My question is. Can I use the backing plates and drums from the 7 1/4 on the 8 3/4. Both rears are SBP.

Harry, you had a BBP 7 1/4? I have never seen one. Could it have been an 8 1/4?

I did! I was stalking you and started reading through the different threads. Bored I guess. There is more than one place to buy a killer 727 from thats for sure.

Somehow I missed this thread Louis. I use Protrans. Dave is very nice but the phone isn't his strong point. His son races Super Stock in a 69 Dart. He has done my transmissions for years and I highly recommend him. If you need a connection to him let me know. I have had a convo with him about my...

I have noticed that you are giving out trans advice that is totally beyond my knowledge base, so I figured that you were or are a professional trans guy. So i can appreciate that. I have long been a proponent of the 904, every one I have had has been like an anvil and had produced great results...

The numbers I came up with are from my own real world experience. I also always run the low gear set which helps in the e.t. department. At the time my cars were running low 13s so my results will be more dramatic. I love the 727 but why not run a baby version. My 727 in turbo car took over...

I ran a 904 for 5 years in my Dart it ran high tens in a 3440 pounds street car. I had a 450 hp small block with a 200hp N2O kit on it pushing the button right out of the hole. It held up just fine. I did break the snout of the converter once and it was due to my bell housing not being perfectly...

If your going to put it on a sticky race track then a spool is really the only viable option.

I made my own jig and have narrowed close to 30 housings with it. For $289 there is a guy on ebay selling one recently.

In my experience 904s can be cheaper. Most people give them away and I too have had a 904 in my street/race car and it has NEVER broken. IMHO the 904 will make a difference between, "yeah it runs okay" and "holy sh&t that thing runs!"

This supports what I was saying, but your car is so fast and light that it probably wont have the typical results to expect from a 904/999. At some point a 727 is necessary, my turbo car has a small block 727 because of the torque capability. My point is that in my opinion the 904/999 has...

Yeah it was with low gear sets. Why would you run anything else? My cars were right at 3000 pounds if you call that heavy. I would bet that you would still see .3 tenths without the gear sets but I haven't done that yet. Thats part of the allure of the 904 too is that you can get factory low...

I have done the swap on 3 cars now with back to back testing and the slowest one picked up 4 tenths. IDK what your buddies are doing to mess that one up.

I put a small block 904 behind my 383 in my Road Runner. The trans was sent to Protrans in Lancaster Ca (I highly recommend) for a rebuild and upgrade to low gear set. I machined the bell housing off and replaced it with a JW Ultra Bell (not cheap $300) and installed a 10 inch converter. The car...