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If one tire stopped leaving marks its a spool or axle issue.

Hows the ring gear look? For it to stop turning one wheel it would have to have lost the splines on the axle or spool. I have seen axles not have hardly any engagement and then break when a good amount of power is applied.

It was really. It picked up .3 and 9 mph in the quarter. 8.77 to 8.43 and from 154 to 162

Congratulations on the engagement! That 10” if its like mine it will go probably high 3’s low 4k with you hp on the brake. Mine is 4400 when I let go and the dump valve closes. Hyguard dropped my converter slip from 35% to 3% at 1200 whp. So I am not what that guy is talking about.

Thats a great idea. The cars we had blow through on were race cars and didn’t really do much on the street.

Yep. Thats a good place to start.

What are you using for a boost controller?

What fluid are you running?

I would get rid of the insulation. The hood is more resilient than you think.

I dont think plastic is the right decision if it’s melting stuff. Air gaps are key to keep things from melting.

Heat is a *****. I usually drive it with the hood off.

I knew a magnum would be as strong as a stock LS and you pretty much have proven that. So I have thoroughly enjoyed watching this. E85, especially pump E85 varies greatly in octane. Its also only 105 octane (the good stuff from VP) so E85 can be a tuner’s nightmare. You can for sure detonate a...

That figure is an old wives tale. At least the small block Chrysler one. A small block Chrysler will live at 1k HP forever as long as it doesn't get into detonation. Categorically I agree with you but my original turbo motor made 1222 at the tire with 4 bolt splayed caps. In addition to that My...

They really have come a long way!

Well I race all over the country. The only tracks I have seen where radials rule are the duck x productions or the 2k races. At Dragweek the radial guys are super cocky until they are a few days in and more than one track send them back to the keyboard to reduce power and us old guys pass them...

Until you actually race a small tire car. They work great until they don't. Its easy to watch all these small tire cars go down a perfectly prepared radial tire track and think its easy. Fact of the matter is most tracks aren’t prepared like that. So big tire cars dominate. This car in question...

The MATS was killer and the last call was fantastic too. Both events were well run.

Great to meet you and your wicked ride!

I didn’t watch the video but if it broke the last two rods it probably bent the crank. I sprayed a stock crank, Rod, 360 for years. It made 450 wheel hp for years. Never did break it.

You definitely want to pull timing. 2 degrees per 50 shot is a good place to start as said. Do not spray that big of a shot on pump gas. It will detonate. When running race gas retarding the timing helps it make power as well as saves the motor from detonation. The burn event inside the engine...

Oh that's a sweet piece. Standard LA?

Looks great!

These two run 8's no problem with hundreds of passes on a stock block, no hard block filler, no girdle, STOCK. People need to stop with the non sense. Detonation kills blocks. I also ran a 351 Windsor block for over 100 passes with a stock cast crank and hyper pistons on a 350 shot, no...

I know we just talked but you should also look at torque converter slip and see what mph its turning on the dyno.

Your totally right but it would not have a signal at that gap. So it wouldn’t even start in my opinion. My Holley sensor is so sensitive a few thou will make it a no start.

Also Matt as a side note. I had trouble with my 36-2 wheel. It would misfire over 6500 (i was running the motor to 8800) and it was the trigger wheel. I use the holley sensor you originally mentioned. I had to turn down my holley wheel and make an adapter to make it work, what a pain in the ***...

With my car I had the base timing off. So when I set the timing at 20 BTDC it was really 50 degrees BTDC. We didn’t notice any performance change at the time because boosted cars are a handful as is. But upon disassembly i found the headgasket had leaked at some point. Subcom is right, there...

Thats a perfect spot for it. Some efi systems also have a timing retard for certain conditions. You or they would need to go through and make sure one of these safeties is not turned on.

Which part are you asking about?

Hopefully the timing is very retarded. I think it would be pretty spicy even with 60 or 70 degrees of timing. Mine was.