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They look like 285AP or possibly silvolite 1266 pistons...if they are, they're a low compression piston with either a 1.72 or 1.74 CH respectively. Assuming all other measurements are indexed and nominal, those pistons would be 0.102" in the hole at TDC. Even with magnum heads, that puts your...

Factory slugs for the 5.2 were indeed flat top with no valve reliefs. I have a 98 Dakota 5.2 in my 72 Scamp. The LA 318 in my Dad's 85 Ramchager also has flat tops too, but if I were to guess, they'd be a little lower in the hole than the magnum.

Well, regardless of magnum or LA rods, they should still be 6.123" C2C. The only dimensional difference I'm aware of between LA and magnum rods is the small end width; magnums are slightly narrower. I hope it works out for you, I'm anxious to hear about the performance level as I'll probably...

Weird-almost sounds like rod C2C lengths inconsistent?

I bought the pro comp one when I did my 5.2 swap-leaked coolant...replaced with Edelbrock, problem solved.

I'm with the above... I dropped a 5.2 in my car and had the LA parts on hand, minus the intake. I bought the Hughes cam snout extender which came with its own issues in my experience. If I'd had it to do all over again, I'd have pirated around the junk yard for about $100 worth of Magnum...

I don't think most of us knew the OP retrofitted factory EFI...and he didn't elaborate that detail either...not a pointless thread. The above doesn't specify EFI...my 5.2 swap is carbed and has trailbeast's HEI setup...it doesn't have a ballast resistor either.

I used a cheap 360 pan (from Jegs) on my 5.2 magnum swap about 4 years ago with a magnum 1 pc gasket and after I realized a mistake I made, it worked just fine. magnummopar and I had similar experiences...no leaks after proper install.

Now on the other hand, we ALL know power is addictive, especially horsepower...and if you get the feel for 10lbs, your butt callouses will get thick and you'll want more...and eventually you'll run it to beyond the capabilities of the stock rotating assembly, at which point in time, the crank...

I pushed up to 12 in my stock bottom end 302 (with a 020 under turned crank, stock rods, and stock iron heads) for over 10K miles before I sold the eng/trans to a friend of mine. It never missed a beat and was a daily drivable 11 second car. Seeing that you've built other boosted engines in...

I see your concern, but unless you're really turning up the wick, .020 or even .030 shouldn't be a problem as long as it's properly ground clearanced and installed. If you're that concerned about breaking a crank under boost, you really ought to step away from a stock crank, LA or otherwise...

Is there any particular reason you're averted to having the crank ground to a standard number like 020 or 030? That would be a standardized oversize and bearings are readily available in those sizes.

The part number cross references the same on both RockAuto and AutoZone's websites when checked for a 91 D150 1/2 ton pickup with 360 and a 2000 Ram 1500 1/2 ton with a 5.9 I know the balancers and flexplates are different though from LA to magnum

If the .060" washer is that annoying to you, you could epoxy it or weld it to the bracket and repaint it...problem solved.

I've worked those before, sorry to hear they have bends that aren't supposed to be there...but as long as there aren't any pinches in the line, you can round them back out with a hand bender. I've done the same thing with brake and fuel line kits. I can't really tell by the pics but it looks...

no argument there...

Goo...those heads look awful. shortblock looks ok from the outside...you plan to pull it apart and inspect? Would make a fine candidate for a backup engine...

...down the rabbit hole we go, eh?

Gotta ask, as none of us are there to verify the condition. Tim is correct though, you could lap in some new valves, install good springs and be done. The reason I'm a little skeptical is simply because used heads are just that, used. If in the event the guides are worn out of spec, and...

Hmm... Has anything else been done to them aside from surfacing? If that's all that's been done then you're really only about $100-$125 ahead...if they've been fully reconditioned though, you may have a good deal. That being said, if you have the means and capability I'd say go for the...

No argument about the heads-I was only saying that having the new heads inspected for proper installed height, guide tolerance, checking the seats, plus a decent cleaning would be advisable. As far as breaking in a roller cam...it's not needed. The whole purpose of breaking in a flat tappet...

Good point, but pretty much any set of heads will benefit from inspection and cleaning. Magnum heads probably would work out well if you plan to keep the roller cam...just some food for thought here, you could get it reground from Oregon for $125...put a little extra oomph in it.

I thought about suggesting you buy a set of EQs, but I'm under the impression you're trying to save pennies where you can. Keep in mind, many magnums (as you've found already from searing on google) suffer from head cracks...I'm pretty sure the heads on my 5.2 are, since the donor '98 Dakota...

Probably using too specific of search terms...what I meant was use the search function in these forums for "ebay heads" or something simpler. Yes, it will create more hits to sift througg, but at least there's more info.

Just look in here...

Again, do your research-there are some folks on here who've had issues with eBay sourced heads--caveat emptor and all...

...otherwise, yes, a 5.2 mag would be a good source for the parts.

There's some debate about that since the magnums use TTY head bolts...I say no, others say yes...the new bolts for magnum heads are only $35 a set...but I'm not going to argue that **** again...especially online. Do the research, make your choice.

You posted this while I was replying, a set of magnum heads would improve the CR, and I think they flow better than stock but then you have to swap the intake too, unless you have the heads drilled for LA bolt pattern...plus correct head bolts, pushrods, rockers, etc...

Yes, the roller engines were the preface to magnums...the 308 heads have the same pushrod pinch because the pushrod angle changed as soon as they introduced the roller lifters which shortened the pushrod length. There's actually a good bit of discussion of this within these forums. The 308...