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Depending on the cost, I'd get it just to have it... That said, unpopular opinion time: ...I'm not a terribly big fan of changing things purely for the sake of changing them-the change needs to have a functional or at the very least cosmetic benefit, to me. The GM 8.2 10 bolt is actually a...

Perhaps; my own personal experience says the spider gears would be the first casualty...which is the weak point, but I also know people who used to run 11s launching on slicks from a manual in the 90s on stock parts. The automatics can sometimes go faster simply because you’re usually not shock...

AFAIK, you’re correct-they should all have the same bearing flanges

Unless you’re doing clutch drops on slicks, the 28 spline units actually take some decent abuse...like 12s or even 11s before you actually break stuff...

...as much as it takes to put a Fox body Mustang in the 8s...so somewhere north of 500? It's not any stronger really...just easier to get parts for. You can purchase a new 31 spline LS diff for as little as $250, they make buttloads of upgrades for the housings and they're all over the place...

Guess I should've just waited to post until after I read the 8.8 sticky...that's where all the relevant info is. But, if you want to go looking, I believe 96-05 is about the right year group, trim level would probably be XLT or better, when all else fails, crawl on the ground and verify the...

Explorer? Can’t recall which years off the top of my head, but they’re all over the place

Richmond Gear 5500011 Gear Marking Compound, Ring & Pinion Gears - Amazon Canada

Well, yea, but if you're taking that "vintage" center, fixing any issues, jigging it, and installing new billet ends and correctly installed perches, it might as well be new. And for that price, it's a damn sight better than buying an untouched 40+ year old unit that needs all the same treatment...

I honestly didn't even know they carried new housings...billet ends and the powdercoating sweeten the deal.

even better

Ok, perhaps not brilliant, but salient and concise. I merely offered that I know that people on this forum have swapped in B body rears without relocating the perches (although I agree it's not the greatest idea), also, swapping in a different body rear should always be accompanied by...

Brilliant points blu

65-70 B body rear...apparently people run the perches with a 1/2" difference per side with no issues, or you can knock off the old ones and weld on new ones from Mancini...and is probably your most likely candidate, you get the BBP and it gives you a little bit more rear track to fill the wheel...

RRR suffers no fools and minces no words. He calls it like he sees it and those calls often come across gruff. But he's right, if you consider what Schumacher wants too expensive to do the swap, then you might not want to dive into a project like this.

Yes...you missed something-the first post in the thread... /6 904 won't fit his 318, but he does have the 727

I don't think any of us were trying to be critical of your choices...more just offering options and personal experience, plus recommendations. Sedanman is correct though if you ever want to do spirited driving with it...either the 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 is obviously a better option...just comes down to...

The problem comes when you try to go racing with them...if it's a stock 318, or even a mild one, the 7 1/4" will live until he finds a suitable replacement. I can't wait to replace the one in my '72 either, but it has 90K miles and I've not encountered a moment's trouble with it. OP: There's...

The explorers is likely a cheaper overall swap, but if you pluck the rear from a '94 up Mustang, they're all 5 lug BBP...aftermarket axles are readily available...and the stock 28 spline axles aren't that weak...they can support an 11 second powertrain. Also, the housings from 85-98 are all the...

Stock T-5 is a decent gearbox if you don't expect too much out of it...if you want it to live behind much more than a healthy 318, get a WC version, rebuilt it with a new 2.95:1 first gear gearset from Astro performance, get a rebuild kit with new synchros from thegearbox.org, add a steel input...

Right on!

Although this is a Ford rear axle, it might be better suited in the transmission/drivetrain section...

I'm inclined to agree with Rob on this one. When you set the carrier down in the housing with all the bearings/races/shims, it rotates freely without the caps installed? When you set the caps on, do you step torque the caps? Have you tried spinning the gears from the pinion? Does it turn with...

Wow!!

I think the term you're searching for is "float". I'm with Rob...check the pinion nut first. Get it fixed before it gets any worse and you can probably salvage your ring and pinion with nothing more invested than some time, diff lube, and maybe some bearings/crush sleeve/pinion nut/seal...all...

:thumblef: Nice work dude

Friggin sweet man--makes me want some healthy stall in my Scamp. Awesome vids on your youtube account, funny one with the wife and mother in law

You think maybe a piston installed upside down or can one do that?

Good call Rob, I was going to say A999...that's what my old roommate's 89 YJ had. I'm with AJ on this one too--does reverse work? With my wife's car, one of the pistons was stuck in the valve body and it kept the trans from dropping down into 1st...it would do the same thing in...

if you don't want it to rust, sure...