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@ cruisingram - did not notice your a location. I imagine there are much fewer spares floating around. @ dave ellis - very difficult to find even in large markets like L.A.. It's why I started using the webers.

The 38/38mm DGES? (DGAS) is NOT a progressive in the same sense as the 32/36 style. The 32/36 allows you to actually run on the primary only, before the secondary opens, based on pedal input. The 38's open both venturi's the same amount at the same time, from idle to wide open. In that sense it...

I use these on my cars almost exclusively. Agree with George Jets about them having both bolt on terminals. At some point the smaller terminal becomes a spade connector instead of the threaded stud. Exactly what year I'm not sure. If I had to venture a guess it would be '92 or '93 but don't...

The "feel" you're looking for is in the seat of your pants so to speak. There is no factory value for the force to move the kickdown lever, i.e. pounds/sq. in., etc. if I understood you correctly Pm me with your email address, year of your car, and I can send pic of where to adjust the throtle...

I was under the impression that later model blocks had thinner cast walls in the cylinders and had lower limits on acceptable overbore size compared to earlier blocks. Being a '79 block isn't he already at/near the limit at .080 bore oversize?

I agree with professor fate, regardless of what you did, i'd adjust the throttle pressure (kickdown) linkage. You would want to shorten it to reduce the shift line pressure.

I agree with Hyperpak, these days I rarely come across 198's, in cars or in junk yards.

On the practical side, the heavier the car your putting it in the more appropriate the 225 becomes. In the early "A"'s I drive ('60-'62 just over 2800#'s) the 170 does very well for all the reasons other posters mentioned. If your body is a heavier '75 Duster with air, power brakes and steering...

I use any 10/40 on sale. Personally I think brand/weight is of less importance than keeping up with scheduled changes.

I agree with rustyratrod that block is junk. With enough money it might be saved but you could probably buy another for a lot less even with shipping. Keep us posted, I'm curious about repair possibilities outlined in prior posts.

That's a tough call. not in a water jacket so if it sealed up and did not leak oil it would probably be OK. Tough part is knowing it's there and the lingering doubts. Flywheels sometimes get what looks like cracks in them but after re-surfacing they all disappear and this might be like that if...

If it's in one of those two rear ports on the number 6 runner it should unscrew. Those two ports i'm referring to have a raised ring/body that reinforces the threads and should prevent them from breaking. If you do try to unscrew what's in there make sure you grab it and not any part of the...

I had neighbors in Ca. like that. I moved too. Miss the weather but not the neighbors.

I agree with Pishta. They are clifford shorties but the ones on my '62 don't point down on the back half. The rear half collector on mine is lower than the front half and points more rearward. I think they would be usable on a truck. Definitely won't fit my early "A".

I just looked at one, a two piece, aluminum 1bbl with an EGR provision. It has two threaded ports on the number six runner instead of the typical single port of non-smog/earlier manifolds. These ports are standard female NPT threads. Likely whats in yours can be removed based on what I see here...

My internet is more wonky than usual lately. The downside of rural living, at least in SE Arizona. I saw that triple post and freaked out, but was able to correct it.

Based on your description it sounds like Rock auto has the pics mis-identified. The mount with two 3/8-24 attaching studs is for the Right side. The left is the one with a single 1/2-20 stud sticking out in opposite directions. If what you have matches the pic I sent, yes it will bolt right in...

In both pics the one on the left is the left hand bracket and right is on the right. If you need one or both of these start a conversation.

I just did a bid history search and it seems like the seller is using shills to pump up the price. Several of his bidders have bid percentages between 50 and 100%. Typical Ebay gamesmanship. Point being if it sells it will likely be at a price above what the market will normally bear.

I'm currently driving a high blow by engine in my latest rescue car which has unknown mileage and sat for 8 years before the rescue. At 30-50mph doesn't use hardly any oil. Cruising from Tucson to Los Angeles, about 600 mi at 75-80mph, I used a quart of oil per tank of gas. After seeing the...

Wanted to ad that , for every 1960 I've converted, the intake was not drilled which prevented the carb port from having vacuum. I believe '61 was a transition year and may or may not be drilled. I've never seen a '62 or later that wasn't drilled which is why I say '61 may be a transition year...

They were also common on mid 50's to early 60's AMC cars with flathead 6's and holley carbs. Like other commenters, never seen one break even on severely front end damaged cars. But agree if broken a potential fire hazard.

Recently attended a large farm equipment auction near Tucson and there was a SL6 powered nut tree shaker.

The problem of to rich at idle and an acceleration stumble may not be related. The stumble off idle is more often associated with a mis-adjusted/malfunctioning accelerator pump. Your holley's have an accelerator pump diaphram in the float bowl with an arm that sticks out and connects/rides on a...

Most of this thread discusses the holley 1 bbl and the concensus seems to be #53 or #55 Though one post referenced a car on /6.org using a #57 with good success. If you don't have holley one barrels and are using the carters you will be hard pressed to find replacement jets. There really is no...

@RustyRatRod - Is the TTI headpipe standard aluminized steel or is it stainless?

I agree with Hyper-Pak. If you don't turn your six above 5500-6000 RPM the roller tipped rockers are not a necessity even though they have some advantages over stock. However on a higher revving engine like a 170 CID they are very beneficial for adding durability. I broke many stock rockers on...

@ Hyper_pak - The high alternator mount is correct for '60 only Valiants sold with power steering option because P/S pump was located in the spot of the low mount alternator. Rarely seen as so few were ordered with power steering.

I'd argue that value or worth of anything varies. HemiSSdart found Mike Sargent who was willing to pay a premium it sounds like. I agree with another poster about a set selling for what I thought was a reasonable cost on Ebay a couple years ago (900-1000 if I remember correctly). A restorer is...

It seems some people have better LUK than I did.