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Welcome tothe wonderful world of drum brakes. Chatter could result from out of spec run out of drum or hardened high spots, drum turned past speck limits, contaminated brake lining from brake fluid, wheel bearing grease, incorrect radius of shoe to drum (shoe has to be re-radiused to a turned...

I would suspect the remanufactured master cylinder is leaking fluid past one of the cups not allowing front or rear circuit to full pressure. I have had terrible luck with remanufactured hydraulic brake parts over the years including the ones I did my self. Where these cars have readily...

Yikes! Give me a call when your friend hits the road with rotted soft and hard brake lines; I want to be somewhere else off the road. After ten years, soft lines are at their safe limit and need to be replaced even if they look good. If hard lines have rust in them they need to be replaced...

Also I think upper ball joint size changed between 72 and 73 along with bolt pattern.

Do you have stock KH disk brakes, or later model transplant? I had the same pedal feel with manual four piston KH disks before rebuild. Light braking they worked OK or so it seemed, but under hard braking, hard as a rock, and long stopping distance. Several of the pistons were stuck in each...

This is why I don’t mess with rebuilding brake parts, where for a few bucks more one can get a brand new part.

There is plenty of room with a 273 to install the larger master cylinder. Remember the later cars also had small blocks mounted under the later sized mastercylinders. Go onto Rock Auto and shop for bore size in a manual disk/drum master cylinder from 72 through mid-80’s A & F bodies. I...

My 67 Dart came from the factory with optional KH disk brakes; all I did was upgrade the small sized ‘67 factory master cylinder. As Cosgig said it is all bolt up parts, however I bent my own tubing for the rebuild copying the factory bends. I would spend a few extra bucks and only use a...

I believe one can use any manual disk/drum MC four stud mount from later cars such as A body, and F body. The newer MC’s have larger bowls, and a choice of bore size. I installed Raybestos 36412 with 1 1/32” bore which works well with four piston KH front disks on my 1967 Dart...

Use a “new” not rebuilt manual disk/drum master cylinder from a later A body or F body. The later MC has larger fluid capacity.

Use drum MC with drum brakes.

The last car I made up brake lines for was my one owner ‘82 LeBaron Convertible. Faced with trying to make a good workman like job, look as close to factory as possable, I devised a method to replicate the original lines. Using a 25 foot coil of the copper like soft alloy replacement...

Last time I looked, just the parts to rebuild KH calipers were more expensive than rebuilt units less core charge and shipping.

Syed, Pull brake drum off, and see if there are any leaks or stuck wheel cylinder, broken or disconnected hardware. Also examine wheel bearing for damage. One other cause of brake sticking is a collapsed flexible brake line that acts like a foot valve disallowing fluid flow back to master...

I refurbished KH brakes on the Dare last winter, after weighing cost of home rebuild of calipers (expensive & PIA) v. remanufactured & core charge Raybestos won out at the time. Do purchase the “Hardware Kit”; it’s a set of pad retainers. Rock Auto not only beat...

If it is designed for front disk/rear drum, and mounts on four studs your good to go. The later master cylinders have larger fluid capacity than the early dual circuit master cylinders. Be sure to beef up the fire wall where MC mounts. If the new MC you have is an aluminum two bolt...

I recently rebuilt manual KH disks and 10 rear drums on my 1967 Dart. They feel great, and stop the car well without a lot of effort. I wouldn’t add a power booster, it is not needed in these light cars. I can tell you this; if a few pistons are stuck in KH disk brakes, the pedal...

Call them, and ask the difference.

You have 10” drums, measure width of brake shoe as some later cars had wider shoes to get correct part. Grind off the weld bead holding stud, press out old studs, and replace old studs as needed when installing new drums. That hole is an imperfection, or someone punched it out beating...

And, there is Scarebird disk brake conversions using factory parts: http://scarebird.com/

Glad you all in joyed the lingo! This is the way I generally talk in person, but I try to keep the written gibberish to single meaning in a family setting… So much for that effort, I did refrain from saying rhythmic. Nice B & BH toon featuring the national phallic… Good job.

Probably you have air in master cylinder after it sat out disconnected, and needs to be bench bleed. Before you yank the master cylinder out for a bleeding try this little trick: Pop the cover off master cylinder, and make sure both bowls are topped off with fluid. Using your hand, slowly pump...

You must be referring to head size, as a half inch bolt holding a wheel cylinder is a wee bit stout. I would make a trip to a hardware store with your cylinder or cylinders in hand, and pick out some grade 5 bolts that fit it or them. Someone may have substituted a work-a round metric...

You must be referring to head size, as a half inch bolt holding a wheel cylinder is a wee bit stout. I would make a trip to a hardware store with your cylinder or cylinders in hand, and pick out some grade 5 bolts that fit it or them.

I have manual KH disk brakes & 10 inch rear drums on my ’67 Dart. Before rebuilding the system it had a few stuck pistons in calipers; the brakes were terrible, real hard pedal, and long stopping distances. Once fitted with rebuilt calipers, new pads, and a new, not rebuilt, larger than...

I don’t think it is a master cylinder diameter problem. I have manual K&H disks on the Dart and same general sized diameter MS, and the brakes work & feel normal. My pedal is solid and firm once friction material contacts metal. Granted on car equipped with power brakes there is a mushy...

My first thought reading your saga was a common hard pedal problem caused by stuck wheel cylinders. I agree with 67Dart273 that there is still an obstruction in the system somewhere now that all wheel cylinders have been replaced. If the brake pedal won’t depress when connected to system...

You California guys have it so good, that fitting looks almost new for the age of it compared to the rusted crap just four years old we see in New England. You may get that fitting lose with vice grips, however chances are real good that you will bugger it up enough so threading it into a new...

If were my car I would replace all three. These soft lines have about a ten year safe life. All newer flexible lines have a manufacture date; if no date, hard & stiff, or cracked they are real old, and need to go.

Rock Auto has all the Kesley Hayes small bolt four piston disk brake parts from several manufactures. If using KH brakes you will need 14 inch wheels to clear caliper. By the way Chrysler KH disk brakes are same as early Mustang. You may be able to redrill axel shafts to relocate bolt pattern.