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I had one on my car with wilwood disc on all four corner. It was ok but I ended up going 15/16 and liked it better

Sounds like you've got a plan keep us updated with progress

Pretty slick setup! If it was my car I would drill as few holes as possible! I would run the lines straight back to the firewall then down the outside of frame rails

I am having a hard time picturing your proposed line position. I re-plumbed my entire car front to rear with all new stainless stock. I am no professional but here is my advise. The lines need to be routed away from extreme heat like exhaust. They also need to be routed in a way that in case of...

Is there an adjustable pro portioning valve? If so its gotta be wide open

7/16 stud was only used for small bolt pattern. if you go up to 4.5" bolt circle they will use a 1/2" stud. stock or aftermarket

only bolt and got kits i know of under $1000 is the wilwood kits. i have the 12" rear disc set up on my car. rear disks are over kill but i like this kit because its super lite. 35 lbs for entire brake package. rotors/brackets/ calipers.

i went with the 11.75 c-body rotors on the front with the ar engineering caliper adapters for wilwood calipers on the front. they were only $150 ea. then i used wilwood rear disc kit also. over 30lbs of weight loss in the front brakes alone. rear i lost even more.

hell ya i would use them. i have the spindles off an aspen on my dart. i got the whole front end for $50 from a car rotting in a guys front yard. just knocked on the door and asked if he was parting the car. i showed him a $50 and he let me take the complete front suspension. i had my car up to...

i think you use the outer tie rods for the 73-76 and inners for the pre 67 so they fit your center link. I could be wrong. they might all be the same stud size. i have the 11/16 tie rod kit from pst under my car.

i have a 65 valiant that i am doing the same exact thing to this weekend. i have the wilwood adjustable prop. valve in the picture below. i cut all the lines outta the car front to rear and will be starting over. i am using a master outta a 93 dodge shadow. 7/8' bore and aluminum body. only cost...

going to re-plumb my entire 65 valiants brake system. i have the 73+ disc swap for the front and the stock 10" drums out back. I have a wilwood adjustable distribution block already. I want the brakes to stay manual and want as little peddle effort as possible without having to push the pedal...

i personally prefer the slider style. i dont think you can get the pins anymore for the pin style. the sliders also use the same calipers and hardware as the 73-76 abodies.

you can cut the heads off on the back side. they are what holds the brake shoes to the backing plates.

you can snip of the heads of the spring nails on the back side of the backing plates. that should let you pull the whole drum with brakes stuck to drum. is there an emergency cable hanging out the backing plate? could have the e-brake on and rusted the cable to housing also. if that dont work...

I have that exact set up ready to go into my 65 valiant. converting to front discs.

I know for a fact that wildcat auto wrecking in Sandy, OR has used ones. they have stacks and stacks of them. I know it wont be brand new but im sure they have something that would work just fine. they ship parts all the time.

LOL. like the saying goes: "the older I get, the faster I used to be". ha ha ha. That's cool that you met a member. I have met a few. Its always cool to meet members in person.

the offset moog "problem solver" bushings help with this issue as well.

car looks great buddy. had no idea you were in Idaho. just a few hundred miles away.

i have seen it done with the high beam switch on the floor too. i just ordered the summit brand kit. was pretty easy to install.

i have mine set up with a toggle switch in the dash. pump then hold the brakes. hit the switch, let off the brakes and let her rip tater chip. then my hands are free to shift, or thumbs up out the window for photo op's. its the one on the far left.

if you have a choice id put the vent on the axle tube and not the side of the center portion. it wont be as prone to seeping there.

for the front of my car i ordered a set of stainless lines from inline tube. i was pretty impressed with the fit. they dropped right in. i made all my own lines for the rear end. pretty easy and saves a few bucks.

i would use the 2" abrasive discs on a 90* die grinder to clean up the welds. where are the master cylinder studs? they should be coming thru that plate. they connect the master to the under dash bracing. you need them or when you push on the brake pedal your pushing the fire wall toward the...

I have the 11.75" rotors on my dart. i had a set of the factory calipers on at first and then swapped them out for the fancy 4 piston wilwood calipers. i think the factory single piston actually stopped better.

yes you can "twist" you shouldnt have to get too carried away. they should be close. just be careful not to kink them. they are stainless it looks like so they should move without kinking.

they take a bit of tweaking. I installed the same kit in my car. they are pretty close just take a little bit of persuasion.

a= master cylinder to proportioning block b= front proportioning block to rear of car with inline bias valve c = driver side inner fender bulkhead to proportioning block d = firewall line from proportioning block to passenger inner fender bulkhead.

i would check all your rubber hoses. to the front wheel cylinders and then to the rear prop. block on top of the rear.