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Cam and valve springs. But swapping rear gears to 3.55-3.91 will have better results

where you at in Sumner? I'm in Puyallup, right off Valley Ave. Your only a few miles from me. Nice to see another Mopar guy in the area.

the alum blocks have head sealing issues i thought. what about safety? would this thing pass tech at a race track?

so your putting 120hp into a vehicle that weights less then 1000lbs?

dont wanna start another pissing match but the 400hp goal is not an unrealistic request. it is much easier with a v8 engine and can be done extremely easily with vertually any v8 platform and still maintain its reliability and mild manors. a stroker small block is hard not to make 400 or more hp...

yup gonna be quicker with a properly set up auto and a converter that is matched to the set up. more consistent too. go to the track. walk the staging lanes. 9/10 cars run auto's. why? because they win races with them. stick cars are fun and nostalgic. lets see someone daily drive a lenco...

i think a mild 360 magnum engine with an aftermarket fuel injection like mega squirt could make 400+ hp pretty easily and still be very dependable. also need to remember that the new challengers weight over 4200lbs. a small block 65 valiant is going to be under 3000lbs. that will make the car...

qa1 double adjustables up front and single adjustable in the rear. can dial in firm street ride then click a switch and loosen her up for the strip.

while you got the pan and the valve cover off get you a gallon of diesel fuel and a scrub brush. knock as much off as you can then when you get it running id fire it up for few min and then change oil and filter. then i would dump in about a pint of diesel into the oil cover and run it for few...

you could look for a super six intake and carb set up. you could take the head off and have it milled to get some compression in it. a good valve job and have the head rebuilt. throw a cam in it and new valve springs along with a header. that i bet would net an easy 50-75hp. I bet you could shop...

no i have never tore into a /6. but i would be very very hesitant to machine a timing set. they should bolt right up straight outta the box. is there another problem that is preventing it from lining up?

throw that thing in the garbage and get a new timing set. why would you even consider modifying a timing set in the first place. that is flirting with disaster.

get it all apart and soak it over night in pin sol. no joke will make it look brand new.

so then take it apart and see what makes it tick. dont cost nothing to do that.

a rebuild kit cant cost too much. i say go for it. if anything it may help you understand how it works.

my eddy headed, m1 single plane, 383 dart, with a 4500 stall and 4.10 gears gets about 6mpg. ha ha ha

wouldnt this set up let the carb see full pump pressure? say if your pump was pushing 11 lbs.

to each there own. I respect all aspects of the hobby. I would just rather spend $2500 to get over 350hp than be lucky to get 250 with a slant. Like i said, i am not trashing anyone that builds a slant. I went big block with my car because i think its the easiest way to build power.

the money spent on the slant to get you very little hp could be spent on the 340 or 360 (360 is cheaper and more readily available) and you would have 4X the hp as the slant.

you prob have 2.76 rear gears. even a 300hp engine would feel like a slug with those gears. id throw a set of 3.55 or 3.73 rear gears in it for daily driving and see what a difference it makes. you will be surprised.

the new pump gas has alot of ethanol in it. it breaks down the fuel hose and gums up in the carb/pump/pickups etc. does it have a fuel filter? bet its full of crap.

its prob your tach signal wire.

i think the fuel was evaporation out of the bowl vents. i have a branks spanking new porform 750. not a single drip, leak, etc. if i leave it alone for a couple days the bowls are empty. I have sight glasses in the bowls and can see that they are empty. i have an electric pump so its not a prob...

i always clean the valve cover flange with rubbing alcohol then i like to use a CORK gasket. i run a bead of rvt. on the valve cover side of the gasket and place it on the cover. i then smear a thin layer of vasoline on the head side of the gasket. that way later on if you have to take it off it...

"There's nothing inexpensive about that if you ask my wallet! Lol" that is exactly why it took me 10 years to get my car going. lol having to save up the money.

i wonder if they make any sort of stroker crank? maybe have the rod journals offset ground? churn a few more cubes? it is a very interesting idea.

thats 1.15 hp per cubic inch. thats not out of the realm of reality. its just gonna be spendy. there are not alot of bolt on performance parts for slants. I think heavy porting on the head is going to be virtually mandatory.

your gonna need custom pistons too. its gonna be a spendy little half dozen.

I think either way you go its going to cost money and your gonna have to roll your sleeves up. You can go alot faster, alot cheaper with a v8 swap. hell even a stock bottom end 318 with a cam and bolts on can run pretty good for very little money.

you can get a trans for a couple hundred bucks. you could sell the running slant and trans for 100-200. you dont need a k-member. they make mounts. throttle cable will still work. kick down linkage can be found at most wrecking yards. most times the engine will come with it. slant and small...