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**'We' digress, folks. This is not a question about inductance, capacitance, 'choking' spiral wounds or the like. This is not a question about the use of grounded or un-grounded Nology wires. This is not a question about generated noise and its limitation. The question is stated in the first...

Consider a situation where initial timing is advanced a pretty good bit due to cammage and the setup of mechanical advance to take that into account. With a 'normal' setup as example, you might have 10ºBTDC set for initial timing with mechanical starting in the low-teens-RPM somewhere...call it...

...but I'm not finding one. Wanted: An ignition coil lead wire. Needs to be 25" long. I want 'real' wire, not suppressor. Spiral core is fine. 90º boots to fit a standard Mopar distributor cap and an FBO flamethrower coil ('standard' as far as I know...not like an Accel 14001 yellow brick...

This is a general question that others may hopefully relate/respond to. I have a Mallory tach with a shift ID light. Nothing fancy. The wiring to it has been iffy for some time... a mis-match of connectors fit together and wrapped with Scotch-88. I wanted it easily separable dealing at one...

...but I'll give it a shot. Using an ignition spark tester along the lines of a MacTools ET3142 and an OEM style Mopar ECU, what voltage is measured in your spark plug wires at idle? Or, choose an rpm. A whole lot of things make a difference in that measurement...including what the...

Yes, the ballast has been around the block discussed a few times. I'm sure I've not read all of the threads. Given (from Demon408 years back): and (from killer6 of the same vintage): Engine speed change will take place at the drop of a hat...or the foot. Point is, it happens quickly and...

This question 'fits' both 4-pin and 2-pin ballast setups. I understand the purpose of the 4-pin ballast, the higher resistance feeding a reduced voltage to a five pin ECU. The coil compensating side, whatever value it may be, is relevant to the question. The IG2 (start) wire feeds the coil...

I've been running a 'blue' ignition box for a few years. Got it from the bay. I don't know what it is or where it came from. It works, the car ran fine. I have a VDO white-face tach that I am fond of. The thing started getting flaky a couple years ago. The needle would jump around at lower...

The last two I've bothered looking at after they quit had at least one similar symptom: The distributor + pin measured short to ground (case). I'm curious to what extent others have found that to be true. Anyone bother looking at failed modules with a meter to maybe find the same issue...

..maybe. And maybe what I think I know is 'less than'. This is a true statement: 'Any 4-pin ignition module will work (operate/start/run/fire/motate) in any vehicle that runs with a 4-pin ignition system.' No snooker intended, no catch, no got'cha, no 'over 8,000rpm'. Is it true?

I have a Mopar distributor that uses Mallory's YT advance. The Mallory spring kit comes with springs ranging from pink **edit to change from lb. to oz. Pounds is wrong** (6oz.) to orange (13oz.) Mallory's timing curves show that two orange springs (the heaviest) will max out at 2500rpm with...

I've read dozens of threads about timing, but have yet to sort mine out. Maybe just one more thread on the subject will get through to me. I destroyed my last engine via detonation..and I never heard a thing. The current engine, I DO hear it once in awhile. The only way I've gotten...

I'm looking for a spare box. Chrome boxes are 'no longer available' (the 'not for a lot of under 3000rpm' app note on that box makes it not a good fit anyway), orange boxes seem to be made by all sorts of unknowns and are therefore an 'unknown' I'm not interested in. I see a unit made by...

Greetings: Re: A one-each 'performance' distributor, aluminum body. One of the <$200 units, not any fancy billet blingy. It was advertised as having 'quick' springs in it. I haven't been INto it to check, but mechanical is all in by 1800rpm or so. What I want to resolve is an idle speed...