Started the project as a restoration but as I pulled things apart for the rebuild it evolved. Car has original drive train and all original parts still there. I purchased from a guy who bought it and planned to restore and tore it down a bit and did crappy fiberglass patches to the floor and other areas. never put back together and left in his garage untouched for about 27 or so years.
this right after purchase and first time it had been out in the sun in almost 3 decades. I have had about 4 years now and in the past year have really gotten going on repairs and new parts. It was repainted maroon but am going back to the black that is supposed to be but will use a modern metallic black color and not factory black. adding power front disks to replace the stock non power drums.
staying with the slant six but have purchased true dual long tube headers, aluminum intake with a 2 barrel weber. adding A/C and fabricating power windows to install to go with power locks I am putting in. I have a new wire harness from American autowire that I am installing and also going with full custom dash and gauges. going with an aftermarket shifter and custom center console also. there is more to come and some already done as well as most of parts purchased and or fabricated already.
Already fixed the floor which was a joke.. Guy used fiberglass and was a terrible job see what it looked like when purchased at got a good look at it.
Three sections of the floor where very bad and he just applied layer after layer of fiberglass. what funny is that these sections each came out in sections that he put them in. see what one section looked like and what the floor was actually like below it.
I ordered a one piece floor and cut out the entire floor. once was all cleaned out and treated properly I welded the new one piece floor into place. looks so much better inside and out.
Once I had the floor installed I started rebuilding my seats since due to the torn top over the years not only causing water to sit on the floor and rot it out the drivers outside seat rail in the rear also rusted and rotted to the point beyond repair. Also at some point one of the previous owners recovered the front seats with some generic white vinyl. the rear seat still had the original cover but in very bad shape. I ordered some original seat covers and new foam and cushions for front and rear. I ordered my covers and they were produced by PUI and when they showed up buckets were correct, rear seat bottom cushion cover was correct but the rear back was incorrect and was the coupe not convertible cover. This prompted a several week email and phone calls with customer service for the company I ordered from and directly to PUI. who kept telling me that I was mistaken and it was correct. After several dozen photos they finally agreed that they were wrong but no longer had the correct rear template so I had to pull my torn ruined cover and send it with the incorrect one back to PUI and they built and sent the correct cover finally. My original on the left and the coupe version they sent first on the right. Sorry don't have a photo right now of the rear seat finished.
The process took awhile but they were all very helpful in the end it all worked out.
Since the 67 darts had the rectangle metal seat emblems which I had only the one in the rear still there I tracked down two more for the buckets, which was fun since it is not a part that is remanufactured. Finally found 2 at 30 dollars a piece. I also ordered a set of used bucket seat tracks to replace the rotted ones currently on the seats.
So I had all of the parts I needed to start the rebuild of the seats. I started stripping the seats down to begin the rebuild it was a learning experience. Since I learned that who ever recovered the front seats didn't uncover and start over. They just added a thin piece of foam and then but covers over existing covers. So to my surprise I found damaged original covers under everything with the two seat emblems still attached, So now I have two extra emblems.
Nasty vinyl covers and what I found when I started to pull them off the front buckets.
Once was all down to the metal I fixed any issues removed and treated rust and repainted. below far right all frames with rebuilt replacement seat tracks placed back into car.
I then started the recovering and replacement of the burlap and foam/cushions and have finished the front buckets and will have pictures of the rear bench soon.
Before I decided to go with custom gauges still to be purchased and fabricated. I went with the only option out there and that was white face gauge face and change from amp meter to volt meter due to a re wire of the car with American Autowire replacement wiring, since it doesn't work with amp meter I went ahead and while the gauges were torn apart fabbed up a volt meter in its place.
Below is the gauges when first removed from the car and the white face sticker kit I ordered for a few bucks. Notice that the kit comes with sticker for both volt or amp as well as two versions of the water temp.
First I purchased a 2 inch volt meter. I used a Equus 5268 that I got from autozone which worked perfect.
I then took the gauges apart to apply the white faces and fabricate the new volt meter.
I disassembled the new volt meter by removing the guts of the volt meter saving the guts and the needle only. I then drilled out the two small rivets holding the amp meter to the metal face. I then attached the guts from the volt meter to the metal face plate, I used a strong adhesive like super glue to hold it to the plate. since it uses a different needle that is plastic and shorter with different look I wasn't satisfied. I then using snips cut the metal foil needle from the amp meter and glued it over top of the plastic volt meter needle so that it would match all the other needles but still function properly. I then applied the white faces. and since the needles were faded and old looking I purchased a small bottle of testers paint from a hobby store that was as close to the original needle color as I could find and put fresh paint on all the needles.
Keep in mind that if you want to change the amp for volt gauge this will require you to also cut on the gauge housing for the posts from the volt meter to clear the housing and have the positive and negative connections made.
I am still working on items and have tons of new parts in my garage just trying to find time to get it all done. So more pictures and updates to come in the future.