Why don't you just spray they epoxy, wait a day, spray your filler primer, do your metal work and recoat the repair areas?
1 part epoxy primer and more primer..
- Thread starter grassy
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grassy
Well-Known Member
Actually, that makes a lot of sense. So the same question for the primer ...light scuff and move on to the paint ?
thanx...
thanx...
plymouth67
It be a lot cooler if you did...
No...wet sand the 2k primer with 400 then, seal it and then paint it.
I think of it like this, epoxy prime over bare metal to seal that, get a bit, and foundation for filler. 2K urethane high fill primer for a base to block and get it straight and smooth, then seal with reduced epoxy, then topcoat.
Sounds simple but so much work and some $$!!
Sounds simple but so much work and some $$!!
Be careful with soda blasting. Hard to get clean for epoxy. Look at Southern Polyurathane epoxy and call the help line and talk to Barry for advice. He is the owner and a heck of a nice guy that wants to make us successful as amateurs.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
OK, there are many ways to do this, but I think most experienced body and paint guys (which I consider myself to be) would say that bare metal has GOT to be protected. 2K Epoxy primer is DTM (direct to metal), so it can be sprayed on the bare metal. It will provide a great seal against moisture getting to the metal. Most other primers will absorb water and you could have a rust issue. Here is what I always do:
1. Strip car to bare metal.
2. Blow it off and clean it thoroughly (I use lacquer thinner followed by a wax and grease remover).
3. Tack rag the surfaces to be primed.
4. Spray 3 coats of 2K Epoxy Primer (one light coat, 2 medium wet coats). Follow manufacturers time between coats.
5. Lightly block sand with dry 320 grit on a Dura Block (or similar). Every epoxy primer I have ever used has a slight natural shine, so compared to the scuffed areas, the shinier low spots really stick out. I guess you could use guide coat, but I never have. Then mark all the areas that need filler work.
6. Scuff the areas that need filler wit dry 80 or 120 grit paper
7. Do your filler work and follow up with glazing putty if needed. Don't use cheap filler if possible. Hard to beat Evercoat Rage Gold.
8. When I am done with all filler work, I lightly block everything with dry 320 grit on a Dura Block (or similar). again. This helps flatten everything out and feathers the edges of the filler a bit more.
9. CLEAN everything off, tack rag and then spray your favorite high build primer (mine is Evercoat G2 hands down).
10. Apply guide coat and Block sand with dry 220 followed by dry 320 grit on a Dura Block (or similar).
Mark all low places (you'll still see guide coat there) and fix them with glazing putty.
11. Prime with high build again and guide coat / block sand with 220 / 320 again. If all spots are looking good, I then sand with dry 400 (by that I mean a 400 meant to be used dry. Not the wet or dry 400), then wet sand with 320 and 400 wet sandpaper. If I am spraying metallic paint, I'll wet sand with 600 also.
When block and wet sanding, I never use a circular motion.
It sounds like you have put on a lot of primer, but you will actually wind up sanding most of it off. All my opinion, but I can crank out some nice paint work.
1. Strip car to bare metal.
2. Blow it off and clean it thoroughly (I use lacquer thinner followed by a wax and grease remover).
3. Tack rag the surfaces to be primed.
4. Spray 3 coats of 2K Epoxy Primer (one light coat, 2 medium wet coats). Follow manufacturers time between coats.
5. Lightly block sand with dry 320 grit on a Dura Block (or similar). Every epoxy primer I have ever used has a slight natural shine, so compared to the scuffed areas, the shinier low spots really stick out. I guess you could use guide coat, but I never have. Then mark all the areas that need filler work.
6. Scuff the areas that need filler wit dry 80 or 120 grit paper
7. Do your filler work and follow up with glazing putty if needed. Don't use cheap filler if possible. Hard to beat Evercoat Rage Gold.
8. When I am done with all filler work, I lightly block everything with dry 320 grit on a Dura Block (or similar). again. This helps flatten everything out and feathers the edges of the filler a bit more.
9. CLEAN everything off, tack rag and then spray your favorite high build primer (mine is Evercoat G2 hands down).
10. Apply guide coat and Block sand with dry 220 followed by dry 320 grit on a Dura Block (or similar).
Mark all low places (you'll still see guide coat there) and fix them with glazing putty.
11. Prime with high build again and guide coat / block sand with 220 / 320 again. If all spots are looking good, I then sand with dry 400 (by that I mean a 400 meant to be used dry. Not the wet or dry 400), then wet sand with 320 and 400 wet sandpaper. If I am spraying metallic paint, I'll wet sand with 600 also.
When block and wet sanding, I never use a circular motion.
It sounds like you have put on a lot of primer, but you will actually wind up sanding most of it off. All my opinion, but I can crank out some nice paint work.
I agree. Great advice. Free too!
@harrisonm
Can you follow the steps you outlined above to do a car in sections ?
IE. say a quarter panel
Strip old paint on quarter panel in area of patch panel
Prep for welding
Weld thru primer
Metal work/welding
Epoxy prime weld area
Scuff
Filler over weld joint
Sand
Repeat
Remove all old paint from quarter section
Epoxy
Hi build in epoxy window
Move on and Repeat on opposite quarter, roof etc
Car is now completely in hi bilid
Sand repeat. Seal. Topcoat
Thanks
Can you follow the steps you outlined above to do a car in sections ?
IE. say a quarter panel
Strip old paint on quarter panel in area of patch panel
Prep for welding
Weld thru primer
Metal work/welding
Epoxy prime weld area
Scuff
Filler over weld joint
Sand
Repeat
Remove all old paint from quarter section
Epoxy
Hi build in epoxy window
Move on and Repeat on opposite quarter, roof etc
Car is now completely in hi bilid
Sand repeat. Seal. Topcoat
Thanks
^^^ Sure can. If you DA to clean metal, it will flash rust. If it does just take that off with whatever it takes, then get it in epoxy primer. Does not matter of large or small area. I hate rust and many times it cut out the rust, do my patches, epoxy prime those areas. DA ing the entire car takes some time. I tend to put if off.
I like getting urethane high build over the entire epoxy/car as soon as possible. Just me.
I like getting urethane high build over the entire epoxy/car as soon as possible. Just me.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
OK. here is my $0.02 worth. I have done many cars in pieces. However, I think you want to take it too far. I assume that is why you got a big red X 'Disagree'. I'll get into that in a minute. On my 69 Barracuda, I completely disassembled it. The doors, fenders, hood, decklid, nose piece and front lower gravel shield were the main big pieces to do (9 BIG PIECES INCLUDING THE BODY SHELL). There were, of course, lots of small parts to do like hinges, hood latched, etc., but here I am only talking about the big parts. You could certainly do the pieces one at a time, but you will be wasting a lot of time. For example, if you stripped the doors and the hood, and then sprayed them with epoxy and then did the rest of the steps, it wouldn't take much longer to spray the primers on three pieces than on one. Plus, there is less time spent on prepping and cleaning your painting area. Whether you are spraying in your garage or a paint booth, the area needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Do you want to do that 9 separate times or only 3 times to get those 9 big pieces done. There is also time spent on cleaning your spray gun. That same economy of scale extends to filler work, sanding the filler, block sanding primer, etc. That being said, If you really want to do one piece at a time, go for it. When you are completely done with one piece (a door for example), Wrap it up (old blankets or Harbor Freight moving blankets) and store it CAREFULLY. You will be SO mad if the ready to paint parts get chipped or scratched. The only place I will disagree with you is that you really need to do the body shell in one piece at one time. I have been doing body work and painting for over 40 years, and I would NOT EVEN try to break the body shell up into sections as you suggested. You CAN do the engine compartment separately; I did. But that is all the further I would break down the body shell. That all being said, however you do it, do each piece with the steps in post 31 above. There are no shortcuts. This next part is my opinion, but a lot of professionals will agree. If you are painting a non-metallic color, you can easily paint the parts separately and then assemble the car. I'd paint 4 pieces one day, 4 the next and then the body shell on the third day. If you are going to paint a metallic color, you really need to paint all jams, back sides of hood, doors, decklid, fender lips, etc, and then assemble the car and paint it in one big piece. If you try to paint metallic in separate pieces over several days, you will very likely see slight differences between panels when they are assembled. I could write a book. If you have any further questions, PM me. Here are a few pictures of how I did my car.
They have ZERO idea how many cars you paint a year, yet they disagree. LOL
Or the simple fact that the dude said he is only doing the UNDER SIDE of the car.
You still caint fix stupid. (Not talkin about the OP).
Folks,
I will be putting my car on a rotisserie this spring and having it soda (or vapor) blasted to find out how deep of a hole I have dug for myself. There is a coating they spray on it afterwards to prevent flash rusting for about 5 days.
I intend to seal the whole car with 1 part epoxy primer then get to the bodywork. Not sure how long that will take. I am hoping not more than a month or 2.
My intentions are to spray the wheel wells with truck liner (or some sort of protective spray) then spray primer, couple coats of the colour than a few of clear. This is for the underside only.. I will let a pro do the outside.
Do I need to scuff up the underside before I put on the primer if it is a couple months later ?
Can I spray clear with a 1.4 needle ? .. or do I track down a 1.3 needle.
Thanks
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