1-wire alternator

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cooltx

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if anybody's running a 1 wire ,do you like it and how did you convert it ? I have a 1972 duster formerly a /6 now 360.
 
What are you trying/hoping to achieve? The reason why 1-wire alternators exist is to solve voltage regulator availability or hookup problems, which Mopars don't have. The issues that need attention on most older Mopars are related to the charging circuit itself, not the alternator control circuit. If you upgrade to a higher-capacity alternator of any type, you need to consider the effect of this alternator's higher output on the rest of your electrical system; see this post and here for more info.

To upgrade to a more modern (smaller, lighter, more efficient, higher capacity, greater output at idle) alternator, an easy and very satisfactory pick is the Nippondenso alternator from an '88-'91 Dodge Dakota, D-series truck, or B-series van with a 3.9 V6, 5.2 V8, or 5.9 V8; or an '88-'89 M-body (Diplomat, Gran Fury, New Yorker Fifth Avenue, or Canadian Caravelle). It has the V-belt pulley you'll need, and electrically it'll hook up to any earlier Mopar regulator. If you're using the '70-up electronic regulator, just connect one field wire to each of the new alternator's two field terminals. If you're using the '69-down regulator, connect the one field wire to either of the alternator's field terminals, and ground the alternator's other field terminal. You will need to do some bracket adaptation, purchase new brackets if you're running something other than an LA engine, or use the '88-'91 brackets if you are running an LA engine.
 
my one wire alternator decision was because of the motor plate mouned engine, leaving no room to mount a stock alternator. the small chevy piece mounted perfectly and works great for me
 
I have a friend running the GM unit on his 10 sec 64 Fury but I just can't make myself put Bow Tie parts on a Mopar....
 
I run a powermaster one wire and the reason I do is because I wanted to "hide" as much underhood wiring as possible. I've run it for three years now and it has been trouble-free so far.
 
prodart340 said:
I run a powermaster one wire and the reason I do is because I wanted to "hide" as much underhood wiring as possible. I've run it for three years now and it has been trouble-free so far.
Click to expand...

What amp is the alternator? Did you upgrade anything else to handle it?
 
slantsixdan said:
What are you trying/hoping to achieve? The reason why 1-wire alternators exist is to solve voltage regulator availability or hookup problems, which Mopars don't have. The issues that need attention on most older Mopars are related to the charging circuit itself, not the alternator control circuit. If you upgrade to a higher-capacity alternator of any type, you need to consider the effect of this alternator's higher output on the rest of your electrical system; see this post and here for more info.

To upgrade to a more modern (smaller, lighter, more efficient, higher capacity, greater output at idle) alternator, an easy and very satisfactory pick is the Nippondenso alternator from an '88-'91 Dodge Dakota, D-series truck, or B-series van with a 3.9 V6, 5.2 V8, or 5.9 V8; or an '88-'89 M-body (Diplomat, Gran Fury, New Yorker Fifth Avenue, or Canadian Caravelle). It has the V-belt pulley you'll need, and electrically it'll hook up to any earlier Mopar regulator. If you're using the '70-up electronic regulator, just connect one field wire to each of the new alternator's two field terminals. If you're using the '69-down regulator, connect the one field wire to either of the alternator's field terminals, and ground the alternator's other field terminal. You will need to do some bracket adaptation, purchase new brackets if you're running something other than an LA engine, or use the '88-'91 brackets if you are running an LA engine.
Click to expand...

How many amps are these alternators you are talking about?? Do you need to upgrade any wiring to run them??
 
If I may jump in.My 69 Dart had the org wireing under the hood.I installed all new wireing everything,I now have electric ingniton,different alt and voltave regular my alt is rated at 60 amps.I did not change my amp gauge yet to a volt should I.
 
I also run 1wire GM on my race car. It mounts to my motor plate. Easy install. Made brackets myself. Been on for about seven seasons. Charges about 13.5 all the time.
 
I'm thinking it's a 60 amp and the only thing I did was bypass the ammeter and installed a volt meter, and used an underdrive pulley due too excessive rpm's with tall rear gears
 
I think I got the by pass thing,but if I remember on the back of my cluster there are a red and black wire.So thoes are the wires your talking about join them?
 
Anyone know if a alternator(Bosch) from a 89 Daytona would fit in a 360 alt bracket. It looks pretty close but its to cold out to mess with.
 
All the '88+ Mopar alternators (Nippondenso 40/90 or 50/120, Chrysler 40/90 or 50/120, Bosch 40/90 or 50/120) use the same bracketry for any given application.
 
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